Kiss or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber

[Books]

Just started reading this collection of essays/articles from a Punk/Extreme Alpinist named Mark Twight. So far (about 80 pages), the book is an engaging, somewhat profane, look at this man's addiction to mountaineering and his total inability to deal with stupidity or mediocrity.

What is of value for this board, IMO, is his constant drive to push himself beyond human levels of endurance, his reliance on his considerable skill and talent, and his fierce independent streak. I'm not sure I'd trust him as an individual on the street, but on an ice climb, I'd confidently put my life in his hands. His mission seems to pioneer new routes up and down the worlds most dangerous mountains and to work/live at the threshold of experience.

I'd be interested if any folks here who work/have worked on a mountaineering team have read this book or have heard of him and have anything to add to this.

Thanks,
Books

[The Reaper]

I do not know the author.

I do have several acquaintances in similar high-risk sports like skydiving and BASE jumping.

Most chase the "edge" and the accompanying adrenaline rush until the odds catch up with them and they die young.

Not saying that is a good or a bad thing, but your description sounds like he might be that sort of person.

TR

[Peregrino]

"Punk" isn't a compliment in my vocabulary. My personal experience with that personality type is negative. They tend to be very disruptive of everything around them and rarely make good team players for longer than it takes to accomplish their personal goals. I prefer a more "balanced" personality. Yes, we all like a thrill, we all like measuring ourself against a higher standard, and we all expect our teammates to be similiarly motivated. That doesn't mean monomaniacally driven. Obsessive-compulsive personality disorders - even ones that manifest themselves as a "need" to challenge/push limits tend not to promote a quality team atmosphere. Everyone has weaknesses - even "superheros". Living in cramped quarters for extended periods with guys like this is "unpleasant" at best. When they get bored because they aren't getting their ego/adrenalin fix, they make life miserable for everyone around them. In SF - especially in high-stress environments - the ability to contribute to a team and subordinate your own ego to the demands of the group/mission, is far more important than stroking yourself with amazing feats of "derring-do". It's a question of maturity. FWIW - Peregrino

[Books]

Thank you Gentlemen for your responses.

TR wrote, "your description sounds like he might be that sort of person."

He seems more addicted to the abuse inherent in thin air/hypoxic climbing. As far as I can tell from my limited exposure to climbing (low-altitude, non-technical routes in the Olympic mountains: real basic stuff) climbing is essentially a masochistic activity. Elevation gain is a grind no matter how you take it; kicking steps into soft snow just makes it worse. But I kind of dig it, so what can I say?

In regards to Peregrino's comments, I couldn't agree more. But in one part of the book though, he talks about how if one is going to succeed, one must fully commit to the activity. For him, obviously, it's climbing. For guys on this board, the comment works equally well for SF training/missions. I guess I'm trying to say that there may be nuggets of value from this in spite of his anti-social behaviors.

From the book jacket, it says that he undergoes some form of maturation through his experiences. We'll see.

Thanks again,

Books

[Books]

Didn't finish the book; each essay seemed to be a repeat of the last. He hates himself, he goes climbing, nearly dies, feels better. Granted that may be a gross oversimplification, but I've got a lot of books to read and not a lot of time to do it. He does climb some insane routes though. . .

Did a bit of research on Twight though. Seems to have outgrown some of his youthful angst. Now works as President of Grivel North America and trains SOF in military mountaineering. Owns company called Mountain Mobility Group and designs cold weather gear for the military. Had a contract with NAVSPECWARDEVGRU in 2004.

FWIW

Books.

If you want an incredible story, check out We Die Alone, by David Howarth, about Jan Baalsrud.

[Razor]

Originally Posted by Books

Now works as President of Grivel North America and trains SOF in military mountaineering.

Let's clarify a bit. He most probably advises or provides occasional training to SOF.

[Books]

Originally Posted by Razor

Let's clarify a bit. He most probably advises or provides occasional training to SOF.

The info I got had him doing contract training for 40 days in the last year in extreme Alpine Style Mountaineering (light, fast, and high).

[Bill Harsey]

Originally Posted by Books

The info I got had him doing contract training for 40 days in the last year in extreme Alpine Style Mountaineering (light, fast, and high).

I think this is what Razor meant.

[Books]

Originally Posted by Bill Harsey

I think this is what Razor meant.

Fair enough. Just trying to add detail.

[lksteve]

Originally Posted by Razor

Let's clarify a bit. He most probably advises or provides occasional training to SOF.

i would suspect that the six or seven Bergfuhrers i knew would be better suited for this task...none of them were punks...there were a couple of commo men (three that i recall), a weapons man and a medic or two...

[Razor]

Just like guys go to civilian shooting schools to glean information in support of the military-focused training they've received/will receive, it sounds like this guy's training is of the same variety, as very seldom will a SOF mountaineering team do work that could be described with the words 'light' or 'fast' when combined with the term 'high'. Compare this with the idea of adventure racers teaching SOF how to move over terrain--while there may be some tidbits here and there that could be useful and possibly adapted, the overall concept isn't viable in a military environment.

Then again, I've been wrong before.

[lksteve]

Originally Posted by Razor

Just like guys go to civilian shooting schools to glean information in support of the military-focused training they've received/will receive, it sounds like this guy's training is of the same variety, as very seldom will a SOF mountaineering team do work that could be described with the words 'light' or 'fast' when combined with the term 'high'. Compare this with the idea of adventure racers teaching SOF how to move over terrain--while there may be some tidbits here and there that could be useful and possibly adapted, the overall concept isn't viable in a military environment.

Then again, I've been wrong before.

considering that none of the original six or seven burgfuhrers are still on active duty, and considering that a couple were last seen doing just exactly what you mention, i figured they would be a better source of training...and from my experience with these sadists, they moved across that kind of terrain pretty quickly...

[Leozinho]

Given that Twight has probably forgotten more about climbing than anyone in the military knows, I imagine that he can tailor his course to something more practical than, say, putting up lightning fast ice climbing routes.

Twight is/was heavily into IPSCA , is practioner of concealed carry (which itself caused a lot of the climbing community to shun him), and a vocal supporter of the military. Considering the anti-military attitude of many of the outdoor athletes and industry, I'd say Mark Twight is one of the good guys.

For example, a few months back one of the climbing mags ran an advert from a aid climbing gear company that said the company would no longer sell to the military because it didn't support the war in Iraq and therefore wouldn't help supply the military. (It's not even one of those "we're against the war but we support our soldiers" positions. The company is flat out "we aren't helping the military and hope things go badly for the US.)

The interesting part was that the advert was clearly meant to build the company's status in the climbing community. The company (I'm trying to find the name) makes hooks and cams used to assist in climbing progression, rather than gear that is just used as protection from falls as it is in most types of climbing. It's a technique mostly used only on big walls like those in Yosemite, and I can't imagine that a big part of its sales are to the military. Makes me think they were bragging about shunning the military rather than actually taking a position that would hurt their bottom line.)

Mark Twight is active on the forum at www.crossfit.com if you guys want to talk to him directly.

[lksteve]

Originally Posted by Leozinho

Given that Twight has probably forgotten more about climbing than anyone in the military knows

i rather doubt it...