Building a house and lessons learned

[craigepo]

I am presently in the process of building a house. Just getting started; the hole for the basement is dug. Since the hole got dug, we have been weathered-out. Way too cold to pour concrete.

My plan is to do this one time only. So, if anybody has any lessons learned, please enlighten me with your experience.

Thanks a bunch

[PRB]

Originally Posted by craigepo

I am presently in the process of building a house. Just getting started; the hole for the basement is dug. Since the hole got dug, we have been weathered-out. Way too cold to pour concrete.

My plan is to do this one time only. So, if anybody has any lessons learned, please enlighten me with your experience.

Thanks a bunch

We had our present home built from the blue prints up...it is always frustrating but we are really happy with the outcome.
Are you the contractor?
I took a home inspectors course and this can really make a difference in doing it right out of the box.
Air management, proper footings and drainage, slab types in different soil base, safety code, wiring code and amps etc, heating zones, load bearing/roof slant average etc., insulation and r factor capability/fireproofing.....
Little things like using a ditch witch to cut footer paths rather than a back hoe...a bucket has tines and disturbs 4 inches of soil left in the hole that the mix is poured on...equals more settling of the house etc.

[craigepo]

I have hired a well-regarded contractor-I just don't have the time to supervise everything, nor the ability to learn everything. Dad was a contractor, but he wouldn't let me do anything other than carry heavy crap.

We started moving dirt for the basement, got about a foot down, and hit solid rock. Too close to my well to blast, so we had to rent an excavator to jackhammer the entire basement hole. Renting an excavator is not cheap, by the way.

[Golf1echo]

Built several in many different locations, designed many too so feel free to PM me on any questions that may come up, perhaps some questions are better off an open board...

If this is a conversation about stage one I would generally begin with what I consider the most important feature of a home and that would be orientation and integration into the site. A good design with openings oriented in balance and in good orientations together with good construction and material use can go a long way to making your home passively energy efficient in all seasons. Since you have a hole already it sounds like your plans are already in place as well as materials selection and structure so will throw out some considerations for the foundation here. Do not compromise on water proofing! Make sure you have positive drainage built into the site design, do any water proofing first class and protect it if back filling, insulated the perimeter of the foundation and make sure all footers are well under the frost line ( even though building codes are in place environments in some states vary considerably so if you happen to be in the extreme go deeper and fill higher ) consider all chases you might need down the road and have ample drainage under any pads as you will live with ramifications of compromise long after the house is finished and moisture, molds, and fungus effect your families health!! As you say temperatures are critical for the proper curing of concrete, be patient at this stage, warm days and cold night will not cut it. To some degree curing concrete can be covered with insulated pads for the proper duration but better just to wait until the temps are good to pour, it's your foundation after all. If your situation requires back filling be patient there too, build the structure above to properly load your foundation before any back filling or there will be a compromise to the entirety of the structure. Consider long term phases ie adding a generator, lights, water lines to exterior features, extra utilities, etc... can be done underground via a chases already in place if code allows ( they can also be hidden for inspection purposes if that is a conflict). Sometimes structure is overlooked for future add ons like adding a stone fireplace, heavy components, columns add that extra footer, steel, or concrete as you build. Focus on details, small things like insulated pads under wall plates, properly installed doors and windows, correct construction of the roof with vents, insulation, baffles ( creating circulation in the right places and blocking infiltration in others will pay dividends in the long run. Enjoy the process, it can get stressful* but it can be very rewarding and generally you don't get to do it that often.
* " You get what you inspect not what you expect". Verify what your subs are saying and doing and stay in front and on top...

[PRB]

He's exactly right on the orientation...our designer also 'sighted' the home and adjusted some exterior walls due to sunlight.
All of our glass on the south side gets winter sun but no summer sun due to overhang and wall extensions. Our winter electrical bill (heat etc) is about 100 bucks for 2300 ft of living space.
He also put room windows in the corner (not center of a wall) for reflected light...you can read a book anywhere with no light but sunlight.

[BryanK]

Wow, this thread is right on time. I'll share my misery so you won't have these issues in the future. To echo Golf1echo, I'd like to add that even though you're not at this stage yet, if you're going to have an attic to ensure your contractors SEAL THE DAMN PENETRATION POINTS/ATTIC BYPASSES IN THE CEILING AS WELL AS PROPERLY VENTILATE THE ROOF! Here is why:

I moved into a beach house that is owned by my wife's grandmother back in June of last year. It's about 70 years old. I am a roofer, and I noticed there was no ventilation in the home (i.e., ridgevent and soffit vent as there are no gables on this home. It's a hip roof.) I never came across a home in my years prior, and after the military roofing that had NO ventilation. I checked the attic, and it was clean so I thought it was GTG. Well, winter is here in full swing and we noticed water spots forming on the ceiling.

Lo and behold there was/is a metric shit-ton of frost on that stained area under my roof sheathing. So I hop to it and add ridgevent and soffit vents around the home. BAD IDEA! All it did was spread the frost evenly across the entire house. It's been in the teens here and it hasn't melted yet, but when it does I'm screwed. The culprit was bad contractors who did the renovation while I was deployed, and didn't seal the attic bypasses (ceiling mounted light fixtures, wiring points, exhaust fans, etc.). One of the dickheads I found out after I inspected the attic area didn't run a vent through the roof for the bathroom exhaust fan. It was just blowing all that warm moist air right into the attic (I fixed that too already). He has yet to return my calls.

So if your home has any ceiling penetration points, make sure the fella's seal those areas with either high-temp caulk, spray insulation foam, etcetera. Whatever the point calls for. It really gets my goat that a couple bucks in sealant and a couple hours more of labor is going to cost me thousands in drywall repair and mold remediation (I've spotted some already forming).

Congratulations on the good fortune that comes from years of hard work and dedication! It must be a great feeling to have the ability to build your custom home from scratch!

P.S. Build an outdoor fire pit

[ChuckG]

Regarding the basement, Golf1echo's comments about waterproofing and insulating the basement walls are right on the money. Also, ensure they do a good job on the perimeter subsurface drainage and consider pouring the basement floor on 2 inch foam to insulate that also. Avoid any windows in the basement that are below ground level like in window wells. When the ground is frozen and it rains hard the water can't go into the ground and fills the window wells. Learned these lessons the hard way.

[craigepo]

The concrete guy showed up, worried to death about the weather. We were trying to get the bottom of the hole thawed to pour a few days ago, and found a small seep, basically a very small spring. So, we pulled the small chat out, put in a pvc drain, covered everything back up with larger gravel, smoothed/tamped the gravel, covered with black plastic, and we're now waiting on some better weather.

I'm having radiant heat installed, so we are going to have to lay the heat pipe coils prior to pouring the basement. Really looking forward to walking barefoot in the house and having warm feet.

As to basement drainage, this contractor's SOP is to install a french drain, which is necessary in the Ozarks. Also, we are going to drain the gutters directly into pvc in the ground, and run the pvc along the basement and out down hill.

I kind of chuckle when I read people talking about codes. I am so far back in the boonies, the county doesn't even have building codes. Luckily, I have a very reputable builder, who uses good subs.

I'm attaching a link to my pinterest site, where I've pinned some of the house ideas. Kind of a rustic, lodgey type of look, with beams, hearth, etc.

http://www.pinterest.com/craigepo/

[MR2]

Kinda late in the advice gathering stage, eh?

Along w Golf1echo's and ChuckG's excellent observations, I would point out the advantages of a 10' ceiling for the basement. Depending on how you plan (and how you end up) using that space it could provide real dividends. Minimal additional cost. Let me reinforce the suggestion to insulate under the foundation.

Depending on your environment... Brick will pay for itself over the life of the house (not you, the house). If you frame and have cold or winds in your area, go with 2x6 construction. Be sure they put the 2" foam on the outside. Make sure that they use full insulation between the frames. A 1" space can create a cold vortex within the wall that sucks the energy out. So check every wire and pipe run, every vent, light fixture, etc. to eliminate any and all uninsulated spaces.

Use screws for the drywall. They will not slide out.

Plan for multiple electrical outlets and water spigots on the outside - especially near doors and (just inside) the garage.

Frame ground floor doors and windows like you're a drug dealer.

Wait two years before landscaping and installing irrigation. Get the grading away from the house perfectly. Wait two years before finishing the basement.

If your plan calls for vaulted ceilings or high up windows - consider acrylic block. Insulating, no maintenance, no need to finish. Love ours.

[Surf n Turf]

Great comments. Off the top of my head this is my list of suggestins
SnT

HOUSE
Schedule weekly contractor meetings, even by phone, (1 hour - Saturday) until completion

Have pre-defined adjustable "hold-back" funds built into contract with Contractor & HIS subs (Think leverage)

Insulate, Insulate, Insulate, learn to love "foam"

Pour basement walls, NO cinder block

Foam spray basement interior walls (agree with Golf Echo )

Have PVC drains in basement, garage (pre-pour)

Ensure Rebar "substantial" pre-pour, Score basement floor (It WILL crack, even on Granite underbed)

Consider "root cellar", Gun Vault, and bathroom before basement pour

Use 2x6, NOT 2x4 framing

Hot / Cold water to garage

Pre-wire for alarm system

Infrared imaging to detect energy loss built into contract

[CSB]

Based upon a recent experience (my son's house):

ATTIC:

If you are intending to use the attic for storage, floor it while it is still being framed. Don't wait until it is totally closed up and then have to climb up the fold down ladder with strips of plywood trying to fit it into the gaps in the trusses, cutting three and four foot sections on your knees while perched on the top of joists. (It took a while for the bruises to heal).

Also run extra electric cable for overhead lights in the attic while they are simply unspooling the wires. Add a few junction boxes for lights, power, and a place to plug in your Christmas decorations on the eaves/roofs. That one little light bulb at the top of the fold down ladder isn't going to light up more than a few feet at the top, and then you are stuck with trying to add extension cords and extra hanging tube lights, tied in with a socket adaptor(s).

Again, if you are going to use the attic floor space for storage, don't just run electric lines, plumbing, or gas lines (including vents) in every direction, including diagonally across the floor of the attic. They are a pain in the ass to work around/walk around.

Once the attic is filled with insulation, especially blown-in loose fill, you will lose track of where all cables start and finish. Take measurements and pictures in case you have to wade into the fill and restring a defective coax cable.*

PLUMBING:

Know where all the water lines, hot and cold, start and end behind the walls and in the basement/crawl space. Take measurements and pictures while still in the 2 x 4 stage.* Same for the drain/sewer lines.

If you want to later add a sanitary sink/tub next to the washing machine for a prewash of muddy work clothes / TA-50; or install a wet bar in the den/man cave, either do it during construction or at least preinstall capped T-taps into water supply and drain lines behind the wall in the appropriate places so you can tap into them later without ripping up the wall to find the supply lines and then have to tap into wet lines.

Same suggestion applies to toilets. If there is any chance that you will want to add a toilet/sink to the basement/garage/attic, lay in the stubs and taps now. You can always leave them sealed for years until the children/grandchildren come along. The added $50 / $100 now will save thou$and$ later when you don't have to rip out wall, cut and tap into supply lines and drains, then replace wall.

=====

* Do not trust the blueprints. I've seen on the spot changes by the workers, that may leave an electric or water line on the "other" side of the stud they were supposed to be on, according to the blueprints. It's a real bummer to cut into drywall expecting to find the water line on the other side, only to discover that the installer decided that it would fit better if it was moved two studs down the wall.

[The Reaper]

We built ours 2009-2010.

Good advice above.

If you have to save money, look at things that are inexpensive to change later. Some things will be cost prohibitive to upgrade in the future.

Overbuild the footers and foundation.

Hopefully, you are on a well and a septic tank.

Brick exterior with 2x6" exterior framing. R-19 insulation.

Seal and insulate the outside of the basement walls, French drain exterior and plan on draining all gutters to a cistern or concrete catchment tank.

Slope all drainage well away from the house.

Consider access to the exterior of the house for deliveries, service vehicles, concrete trucks, truss deliveries, etc. It sucks to have truss trucks, concrete trucks, etc. stuck in your driveway blocking access.

We did the 10' basement ceiling, pre-wired (power, data, security, surveillance, cable, etc.), pre-plumbed, and used high quality Pella windows in the walk-out basement and throughout the house.

We used the spray in Isocyanate insulation under the roof decking as well. That gave us an unventilated attic which is sealed interior space and never gets more than 80 or less than 60 degrees. Use expanding foam and silicone caulking to seal everything, including the sill plates.

Keep all HVAC runs possible in conditioned or semi-conditioned space.

Insulate garage and all interior walls.

My parents had floor heat in the bathrooms and it was a monumental expense. Get guarantees against leaks.

Consider geothermal heating and cooling.

Tell your roof truss supplier to design for maximum open space for storage. It is cheap space for very little cost. If you are planning for solar, let him know so he can plan for loads.

Use the best quality sub-flooring you can find.

Some material in not returnable. Calculate carefully.

Use high quality (not necessarily expensive) paint.

Minimize OSB, particle or chip board in the house. We used it for wall sheathing, but went to plywood for the roof decking.

Have a hose bib and an electrical outlet every 40' or so of exterior wall.

Install outlets at least on front of house under eaves, more if you run Christmas lighting around the house.

If you want to store a lot of firearms or other valuables, plan for a poured in place vault, and buy a walk-in vault door.

Build a good fireplace or install one with an insert.

Maximize closet space and organizers.

Keep plumbing in interior walls as much as possible.

Split electrical service panels and run two with an eye toward installing a generator. Put essential loads that you would want generator powered on one panel.

Put a laundry sink with hot and cold water in the garage for clean-ups.

Use cementitious board and PVC for soffits and trim. Low maintenance.

Think about security when planning and throughout the process.

Secure the jobsite. Our house sits a couple hundred feet back from the street and 40' above it. I put a chain across the drive between two large trees, unlocked every morning and locked every evening after inspecting the work and had no thefts.

Consider renting a shipping container and having it dropped on site for secure storage.

Get your electrical service drop as soon as possible. If theft is a problem, consider area lighting.

All subs MUST provide proof of insurance, before starting any work.

Collect lien releases and ensure all work is completed to your satisfaction before cutting final check. They will all promise to come back and fix things. None actually will without the cash incentive.

Run more outlets and switches than you think you will need.

Be aware of runoff and erosion laws and plan for run-off control.

Install multiple drains in basement and garage.

Ensure that subs do not overorder material and return it for their own credit or take it to other projects. 10% should be more than enough, unless it is a custom made product.

Consider a metal roof, especially in an area prone to fires. Use the best roofer you can find who will guarantee his work.

Plan your exterior lighting so that you have full illumination of the area around your home and can activate all exterior lights with a minimum of switches.

Take pics of the house from all angles at least every couple of days. Take pics of the interior walls before insulating or drywalling. I have had to locate pipes and wiring several times already. Without the pics, I would be paying for more drywall work, as a minimum.

Exercise caution when nailing, screwing, or stapling around wires and pipes.

Check references on all subs. Check with material suppliers to see who pays their bills on time.

Check the criminal database on all subs. Most will have a history, you just need to know what for and how often.

Always have back-ups for subs in case of difficulty or problems. I had a roofer try to screw me because after reviewing plans and materials and providing a written bid, he said my roof was too high.

Get at least five bids for any sub work.

I have more, PM me for a number if you want to discuss it.

TR

[BryanK]

Originally Posted by The Reaper

Minimize OSB, particle or chip board in the house. We used it for wall sheathing, but went to plywood for the roof decking.

I concur with TR. Plywood is the best and it is low cost. Ensure your roofing contractor uses the correct thickness (nothing flimsy) of plywood/decking according to what will be your decided roof covering (Shingles/Wood Shakes/Slate/Metal/Synthetics). I personally love plywood because it is sturdy, easy to apply, and easy to replace. Not to mention the cost effectiveness and faster application time. If you incur storm damage and need a section repaired/replaced, plywood will also keep some money in your pocket.

Here is a link to the International Code Council roof covering regulations if you want to peruse them later as a reference craigepo. I know it says New Jersey, but this information is relatively universal.

http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newje...s_Chapter9.pdf

I will also add that during the roof application process, or hell, any process that you cannot physically lay eyes on, DEMAND PICTURES of progress. Underlayments are key with all roofing applications, and some contractors may try to hose you by skimping on material costs. Ice/Water shield is MANDATORY on all eaves and rake edges, and either ice/water shield or metal is required for any valleys you may have depending on the roofing material applied. Some contractors just apply felt to the whole roof, and that can lead to leaks if you incur ice dams or wind driven rain.

If you go the shingle route, I'd like to suggest not skimping on the quality (if you choose a metal roof, ask for the thicker gauge). CertainTeed or GAF Products are top of the line right now, and have been for some time. Both offer lifetime warranties on their products. GAF has really improved their QC and are a little cheaper than CertainTeed (no, I do not have any affiliations with either company). Get the 110MPH+ rated if the budget allows. Also, I would stay away from Owens Corning, Tamco, and similar low-cost shingles as they are not constructed as well in my experience. As always, keep your contracts handy, and also request copies of all material receipts/delivery receipts. I hope this information can help down the line.

ETA: Craig, I just saw your Pinterest pictures, and it seems you're going with the log home style? I've been purchasing issues of the magazine Log Home Living (LHL) every time I can find it for years now. I highly recommend you seek one out if you already haven't (I saw a few links on your Pinterest page that are advertised in LHL). Are you going with an actual log exterior/construction? From what I've learned, real wood exteriors both siding and actual log, need to be sealed and treated for insects every so often as well as UV treated so the big ball in the sky doesn't prematurely wear out your wood. You may want to account for those long term costs when finalizing plans for your exterior.

As well as actual construction processes, LHL provided tons of interior plans, design, and maintenance TTP's with lot's of photo's. They have this hybrid option where they blend stick and drywall construction with actual log beam/post/wall construction. They look wild and provide a bunch of savings while maintaining energy efficiency. I just thought I'd throw that information out there.

[ChuckG]

Good to hear you are going with in floor radiant. I have it and it works great. It's been -19, -28, -20, and -22 here the last 4 nights. We keep the heat at 68 and even with that cold it's been comfortable. In the basement, the radiant will be much more efficient if you use the foam insulation before pouring the concrete. If you are using radiant in concrete on the main level it can be hard on the knees and hips if you are standing on it a lot. My kids have it and my wife bitches about the pain every time we spend the day there. Doesn't bother me sitting on my ass. And everything above are great suggestions. Collectively we should go into the custom home building business.

[bravo22b]

Originally Posted by craigepo

The concrete guy showed up, worried to death about the weather. We were trying to get the bottom of the hole thawed to pour a few days ago, and found a small seep, basically a very small spring. So, we pulled the small chat out, put in a pvc drain, covered everything back up with larger gravel, smoothed/tamped the gravel, covered with black plastic, and we're now waiting on some better weather.

I'm having radiant heat installed, so we are going to have to lay the heat pipe coils prior to pouring the basement. Really looking forward to walking barefoot in the house and having warm feet.

As to basement drainage, this contractor's SOP is to install a french drain, which is necessary in the Ozarks. Also, we are going to drain the gutters directly into pvc in the ground, and run the pvc along the basement and out down hill.

I kind of chuckle when I read people talking about codes. I am so far back in the boonies, the county doesn't even have building codes. Luckily, I have a very reputable builder, who uses good subs.

I'm attaching a link to my pinterest site, where I've pinned some of the house ideas. Kind of a rustic, lodgey type of look, with beams, hearth, etc.

http://www.pinterest.com/craigepo/

The law of unintended consequences is what I have found to be the biggest enemy in construction. Unfortunately, that often means you have to make the mistake before you can learn from it.

As far as pouring your slab in this weather, here are a few things to consider. The footers may not be as much of a problem. Curing concrete is exothermic, so the bigger the cross section of concrete, the less likely it is to have freezing issues. A footer 18" x 12" is a fair amount of concrete and can easily be covered with hay and concrete blankets, thereby trapping the heat that the curing causes. Accelerator (calcium chloride) will also speed up the reaction, producing more heat and curing faster. Go with your concrete guys experience.

For the slab, freezing is much more of a concern. Since you are putting in radiant heat, there is a trick I once used that you could try. I bought a cheap ($250) electric hot water heater and connected it to the radiant tubing before I poured the concrete. I then connected a pump and pumped warmish water through the tubing during and after the pour. If you don't already have electricity at the site, this could be more of a problem. If you do this, you can't re-use the hot water heater for potable water, or at least I wouldn't.

Waterproofing the basement can't be over-emphasized. You are basically building a boat that will be underground. Don't rely on tar that is brushed or rolled on, that is damp-proofing at best. There are systems like Tuff-N-Dri that are very common, personally I think your best bet is a membrane system like Bituthene. It is an incredibly sticky, thick membrane that is pretty darn waterproof as long as it is applied properly and the contractor is careful when backfilling. If you have a french drain under the slab that drains into an interior sump, I recommend having a sump pump with a battery backup for that sump pit...unless you have a backup generator already planned. You also mentioned that you will have the exterior gutters piped along the outside of the foundation. Make sure that it is piped in schedule 40 PVC and no perforations.Don't drain the gutters into the french drain. Also, make sure that there is a clean out or accessibility to clear clogs in the future. Otherwise, if you use perf pipe or have a clog, you are now directing the water exactly where you don't want it, to your foundation. If you can drain to daylight, I recommend having another, separate perf pipe wrapped in filter cloth and buried in gravel on the outside of the foundation that drains to daylight. This will ensure that any water that does accumulate has a place to go.

I highly recommend taking as many pictures as possible during construction, paying special attention to things you won't be able to see later. Take good pictures of your radiant tubing before the concrete is poured. A good idea is to put a tape measure out while you're taking the pictures so you have some kind of scale reference for later. Inevitably, there will be a time you need to drill a hole or put a fastener into your slab, and you REALLY don't want to hit a piece of tubing if you can avoid it. Another key thing is make sure that whoever lays the tubing puts a pressure test on it and keeps it under pressure with a gauge until after the concrete is poured. If you get a pinhole in it from something while the workers are pouring the concrete, it will be very difficult to find it and fix it later. Also make sure the contractor lays the tubing to take into account any walls or other features that will be in the basement.

Other places to focus on pictures is the plumbing and wiring before insulation, and framing where you will later install cabinets or other things. Being able to look at a picture and determine where a nailer is when you go to hang your 60" flat screen is priceless. You cannot have too many pictures.

Insulation is a huge factor and can cause many issues if not done properly. Stay away from fiberglass batts, they suck. In my opinion, the best two products are spray foam and dense-packed cellulose. They both have their advantages and disadvantages, too many to list here. Dense pack cellulose is more forgiving if used properly. Spray foam is great but has to be thought through carefully. Some issues that can arise - spraying the underside of the roof deck from the inside can cause moisture problems when and if moisture gets trapped between the insulation and the roof. Also, you have now effectively super-glued your roof deck to the house. If you ever have to do repairs to the sheathing, good luck getting it off. Spray foam can also make any future wiring or plumbing projects into a nightmare.

Exterior choice is another thing to consider. From your pictures, it looks like you are drawn to the rustic logs or wood siding. It's hard to argue with the beauty of that approach, but consider the downsides of cost, insects, rot, and fire resistance, especially if your cabin is in an area that experience forest fires. A great product that is cheap, looks pretty good, and addresses all those issues is cement board siding, or other cementitious products. There are a lot of choices out there, all have their advantages and disadvantages.

There's already a lot of really good advice above. I could go on for hours...by the way I like your pictures. It's hard to argue with the beauty of a cabin in the woods with lots of light, a big fireplace, and plenty of exposed wood. Good luck with your project.