Rocksett

**Ambush Master** · 08-17-2012, 15:56

How difficult is it to remove a Flash Suppressor that was installed with Rocksett?? Anyone got any experience with it?

Later
Martin

Inflexible Six · 08-17-2012, 16:59

No, but my former C.O. does and says armorer's wrench with a bar for torque might do it after you soak it in water for 24.

35NCO · 08-17-2012, 17:04

I have been using it for a few years. It can be removed with a good breaker bar. Its strength really relies on its ability to not be affected by heat, not necessarily shear strength. If using it on a AR/M4 type platform I would recommend using a barrel clamp to take it off, not a upper receiver clamp. The reason for this, is that it is possible to torque the upper receiver due to the "break" torque required. It has a tensile strength of 250 Pounds Per Sq Inch and a shear of 450.

Before trying to remove the "rocksett'ed" device I would recommend soaking the muzzle with the flash hider in water for a 24 hour period. I have never had to do this, but, in discussions I have read of others on other boards, this was required for their success.

I use it on any weapon that has a flash-hider or adapter for a can. Its pretty amazing stuff. If you are considering buying it, it is sometimes difficult to locate. The best place I found is MSC tools direct. They seem to have the fastest shipping I have ever seen. My orders normally take about 24 hours. I would recommend them. One bottle should last you a lifetime. It has the consistency of water.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT...-SearchResults
http://www.flexbar.com/shop/pc/ROCKS...OZ-82p4020.htm
http://www.gem-tech.com/store/pc/Roc...ive-25p124.htm

**Ambush Master** · 08-17-2012, 17:24

Thanks Folks!! That is what I needed to know. I'm installing a couple of SureFire Flash Hiders/Can Adapters tomorrow and it dawned on me what if they needed to come off!!

Again THANKS.
Martin

**The Reaper** · 08-17-2012, 19:18

I had the occasion to recently witness the removal process.

You can soak it in water for a long time before it will be loose enough to easily remove.

The subsequent application of a torch worked well and after less than 60 seconds of heat, it came off pretty readily, while clamped in a vise.

TR

**Peregrino** · 08-17-2012, 19:38

TR is referring to a recent incident with one of my uppers. I too started my research on the WWW. Following the most repeated advice I set out to soak for 24 hrs. After soaking the assy in hot water, hot soapy water, room temperature water, etc. and testing regularly to see if it would break loose - to no avail - I left it soaking for 36 hours. All that did was RUST the barrel. Talk about annoyed! With age comes (limited) wisdom; i.e., knowing when to take a problem to an expert. TR and I went to visit the gunsmith who applied a propane torch for about 60 seconds and popped it right off with a AR barrel wrench. Lesson learned - don't use more than a couple drops of Rocksett and that only on the threads. The FH I was trying to remove had been applied IAW Surefire's original instructions which specified a "liberal" application, to include the portion of the barrel telescoped under the FH. Surefire no longer includes anywhere near the original quantity of Rocksett (enough to glue tiles on the former Space Shuttle) - probably to ensure it's impossible to get overenthusiastic when applying the "glue". HTH.

**Ambush Master** · 08-17-2012, 20:26

Thanks Brothers, that was exactly the info I was looking for!!

Later.
Martin

frostfire · 09-07-2014, 12:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peregrino

TR is referring to a recent incident with one of my uppers. I too started my research on the WWW. Following the most repeated advice I set out to soak for 24 hrs. After soaking the assy in hot water, hot soapy water, room temperature water, etc. and testing regularly to see if it would break loose - to no avail - I left it soaking for 36 hours. All that did was RUST the barrel. Talk about annoyed! With age comes (limited) wisdom; i.e., knowing when to take a problem to an expert. TR and I went to visit the gunsmith who applied a propane torch for about 60 seconds and popped it right off with a AR barrel wrench. Lesson learned - don't use more than a couple drops of Rocksett and that only on the threads. The FH I was trying to remove had been applied IAW Surefire's original instructions which specified a "liberal" application, to include the portion of the barrel telescoped under the FH. Surefire no longer includes anywhere near the original quantity of Rocksett (enough to glue tiles on the former Space Shuttle) - probably to ensure it's impossible to get overenthusiastic when applying the "glue". HTH.

Peregrino, TR, which gunsmith did you two use? I will make sure I soak it just right before taking it to the gunsmith. Thanks!

I'm starting to exercise my right to remain "silent." Since SF can is $$$$$$$ (unless yours is for sale

), I'm just using a generic 5/8-24 screw-on so it can be shared with the AK...

**Peregrino** · 09-07-2014, 12:51

Not sure how helpful the gunsmith info will be; he isn't local. If you're willing to do a two hour drive from FBNC, send a PM and I'll provide contact info. Also not sure about your suppressor attachment decision. I'm unaware of any AKs with 5/8-24 muzzle threads (I am open to being educated though!). FWIW - SF isn't the only game in town (it's just the one I prefer at the moment). I would recommend checking out some of the others and perhaps contacting them to see if they make muzzle attachment devices for the .308 ARs and AKs, then purchase the appropriate adapters for the respective rifles. You will be much happier with a fast attach muzzle device that does extra duty as a FH/MB and thread protector; especially if you're planning to use one can on multiple weapons. The extra dollars will be well spent. Course that's MOO, YMMV.

Javadrinker · 09-07-2014, 18:06

I do not know about soaking in water, but I do know that heat(torch) will loosen the grip enough that an armorers wrench took a flash hider off with the barrel clamped in a barrel vise very easily.

frostfire · 09-08-2014, 19:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peregrino

Not sure how helpful the gunsmith info will be; he isn't local. If you're willing to do a two hour drive from FBNC, send a PM and I'll provide contact info. Also not sure about your suppressor attachment decision. I'm unaware of any AKs with 5/8-24 muzzle threads (I am open to being educated though!). FWIW - SF isn't the only game in town (it's just the one I prefer at the moment). I would recommend checking out some of the others and perhaps contacting them to see if they make muzzle attachment devices for the .308 ARs and AKs, then purchase the appropriate adapters for the respective rifles. You will be much happier with a fast attach muzzle device that does extra duty as a FH/MB and thread protector; especially if you're planning to use one can on multiple weapons. The extra dollars will be well spent. Course that's MOO, YMMV.

Peregrino Sir,

you are correct. Use adapter to fit same can to .308 and 7.62x39 i.e. http://www.usmachinegun.com/proddeta...prod=M92-TA308
I have seen a suppressed standard AK74 that way. Quite sweet set up. Of course, barrel concentricity better be squared away or baffle strike most likely will occur and bye-bye to $$$$ can and its warranty. Also referring to the 10" M92 barrel on that page, the 7.62x39 retains better MV than 5.56 out of < 16" barrel. Plenty tests done with ~150-210fps lost MV. I suspect the can will help reduce that MV discrepancy further.

I'll take the SF brake to John at Shooter Supply. He's always been solid, even took me to the back and taught me finer points of gunsmithing and becoming a better armorer.