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Old 06-27-2012, 19:38   #16
Golf1echo
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1) To be more specific: If longer runs are required to vent to the exterior you would need larger vents and bigger fan to get that accomplished efficiently, similar to hydraulics ( movement of liquid ). Fans don't generally use that much electricity but I doubt a fan built into the micro wave would effectively push air that far down any vent. More than likely you would use a vent fan at the exterior if there was much of a run.

2) You are right about venting undesirable air out of the living environment to prevent problems the trouble is if left on it would vent more conditioned air out than you might realize. In HVAC design it is important to consider where losses occur. Take the cooling you mentioned, in a warm climate we look at things like the treatment between the bottom plates and the pad or deck. I would make sure I sealed that detail well with some kind of foam or sealant because cool air sinks and can be lost through any cracks or openings. The BTU losses are significant on untreated bottom plates and it all adds up over time and the accumulative openings. You can calculate what kind of losses you would have depending on the fan output. These issues are less important in homes where energy efficiency is not a priority.
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Old 06-27-2012, 21:05   #17
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WCH

1) To be more specific: If longer runs are required to vent to the exterior you would need larger vents and bigger fan to get that accomplished efficiently, similar to hydraulics ( movement of liquid ). Fans don't generally use that much electricity but I doubt a fan built into the micro wave would effectively push air that far down any vent. More than likely you would use a vent fan at the exterior if there was much of a run.
It would have to be one hell of a big house to need more than the standard motor/fan. GE specs say not to exceed the equivalent of 140 ft using either 3-1/4 x 10 inch rectangular or 6" round duct. My house has 8" round duct venting straight up thru the roof. Hot air rises, so how hard does it need to be pushed?

If the micro is installed without being vented, the recirc air must be pushed through a charcoal filter (adds friction and cost).

I'm off to bed....

Last edited by VVVV; 06-28-2012 at 05:51.
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:36   #18
Golf1echo
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Sounds like your 8" vent is going straight up and out through the ceiling, that is a good size vent. Situations vary from house to house if one could not go straight up and out you would need a 9" wall to enclose that same vent or go rectangular, if bends or a slanted horizontal venting was needed they all add resistance. You are also getting a tug from the top as air passes or turns your vent cap. Whats for breakfast?
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:46   #19
33army
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My system is a recirc system. I have a window in the kitchen which apparently is to aid in this issue I despise. After looking, it seems to suck the air off the range, through two roughly 3"x5" filters under the microwave then blasted out an exhaust at the top of the microwave, directed slightly away from my cabinets and my face. I have yet to experiment with greasy or smoky cooking (I think thats a good thing) but as soon as I do Ill post appropriate results.
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Old 07-20-2012, 08:23   #20
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Greasy cooking complete.....Results? I am about to knock a hole in my wall for a vent system that is worth a damn.
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