02-04-2010, 21:03
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#16
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Guest
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Thanks for stirring the pot,...
I've been meaning to do so myself, just busy with other projects.
WD
p.s., excellent photos.
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07-17-2010, 19:53
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#17
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Guerrilla
Join Date: May 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 143
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Great thread.
I am no Blacksmith by any means but i have made a few things with fire and steel. As far as primative forging I started with a hole in the ground, literally.
My first forge, age 10, was a hole in the ground. Nice NC red clay about 16 inches in diameter. Approx 16 inches deep. The grate was nothing more than a piece of heavy sheet metal cold chisel cut into a rough circle, then a 16d nail was used to punch holes in it. A 1 1/2 inch pipe 3 feet long was set at approx 30 degrees into the hole. The bottom of the pipe was resting in the bottom of the hole. The sheet metal grate was then set over that creating a hollow spce at the bottom of the hole. The grate was sealed around the edges with clay. For a blower I had scrounged a small squirrel cage fan of something. The fan was only 3 inches in diameter. It was duct taped to the remaining end of the pipe. A fire was built and one a bed of coals was established the blower was turned on. This baked all the clay around the edge of the grate for a tight seal.
The anvil was an 8lbs sledge laid on its side, the forging hammer was a 16oz Plumb.
There was many days and evenings turning big flat pieces to small pieces of many shapes and sizes. Not being able to afford the big nice knives that i wanted, I soon started making them. I still have a few from that time.
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cold1 is offline
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07-18-2010, 00:34
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#18
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Guerrilla
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 243
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HEPHAESTUS
I am a little late to the dance but I am in. Not with an ODA, hope that is okay I tag along? I have been researching this topic and am nearly ready to set up a home shop. The POI is printed and I am ready to learn. Great thread so far.
Sincerely,
__________________
Stingray
"In the fell clutch of circumstance, I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance, My head is bloody, but unbowed." William Ernest Henley
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Stingray is offline
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07-18-2010, 03:16
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#19
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Guerrilla
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 312
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Gentlemen, I am in. Never done any blacksmithing, but I've wanted to for a long time...I have a friend who is supposed to start teaching me the basics...until then, I am going to be watching this thread like a hawk.
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Irishsquid is offline
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08-18-2010, 22:19
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#21
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Guest
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Forge(s)
I've located a website that illustrates a rather good home-shop sized gas forge.
http://www.zoellerforge.com/simplegasforge.html
My current forge is a old air tank, 3' long x 24" wide, 3/8" thick that held air pressure for our livestock water pump. I intend to build a new forge soon, considering this design, for ease in movement. Forges are one of those things that should be "copied" rather than "exploration and discovery". This design should be ok for most ODA needs.
WD
p.s. Sorry for the long absence of this thread, been kinda busy this summer. Take care all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wet dog
All interested parties,
Bill Harsey and I are pleased to announce a new thread specifically designed to teach, advise and coach the ODA blacksmith.
While many sites on the net are designed to educate the modern Blacksmith in fabrication, this thread is for the ODA.
Included is a rough Draft of the course outline POI.
Because we do not have our own area, we should make every attempt to keep this area clean and organized.
By a show of hands, please send PM to Bill or myself if you are interested.
The Blacksmith
Source # 1
The Shop, a.k.a. “Smithy”
1. Site Selection
2. Organizing the work space
a. Safety Equipment
b. Exploding conditions, environment
c. Protection and Clothing
Source # 2
Tools and Equipment
1. Anvil, anvil stand
2. Hammer(s)
3. Tongs
4. Anvil tools, Hardy(ies)
5. Coal forge tools
6. Coal forges
7. Additional tools and equipment
8. Marking and measuring tools
9. Modern Technology, the LP gas forge
Source # 3
Iron
1. What is Iron?
a. Wrought Iron
b. Cast Iron
c. What is steel?
1. Commercial forms of steel
Source # 4
Preliminary Skills
1. Coal
2. Fire Tending
3. Working with Tongs
4. How to heat your Iron Stock
5. Temperature Color Indication
6. Selecting a Forging Hammer, (see source # 2.2)
7. How to Shut Down Your Coal Forge
Source # 5 (Time for work)
1. How to use Anvil Tools
2. Tapering
3. Spreading
4. Upsetting
5. Bending
6. Scrolling
7. Twisting
8. Handheld Tooling
Source # 6
Forge Welding and Assembly
1. Forge Welding
a. Forge welding fire instructions
b. Different types of Forge welds
c. Forge welding Temp. Appearance(s)
2. Scarfing
3. Rivets, Nails, etc.
4. Mortise and Tenon
5. Shrinking, Collars, Wraps
Source # 7
Making your own Tools, this is SF Field craft NUMBER ONE
1. Resources Needed to Make you own Tools
2. Drift
3. Handheld punches
4. Slit Chisel
5. Twisting Bar
6. Hold Fast, Hold Down
7. Hot Cut Hardy
8. Cold Cut Hardy
9. Nail Header
10. Hardy Bending Forks
11. Roll Bar
12. Monkey Tool
13. Adjustable Twisting Wrench
15. Pritchel Plate
14. Handheld Bending Fork
16. Working with high carbon Tool Steel
PROJECTS, (TBD) Committee Selection
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08-19-2010, 20:39
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#23
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,879
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Thanks all for the interest shown in this, especially Wet Dog for getting this started.
Don't be afraid of anything when it comes to hot forming steel. The main thing is to get the steel warm enough to form under the hammer or shape it however needed.
The first thing I'd probably do (and how I did it) was to start collecting hammers of various weights and shapes from places like garage sales and second hand shops. Then find a chunk of steel to hit stuff on. This doesn't need to be an anvil proper, just a heavy flat chunk of steel that doesn't wobble when the work is placed and struck on it.
Go Devil gets it.
The next thing one needs is a fire to get stuff warm in. My very first forge was pretty simple and I used store bought charcoal grilling briquets in it. Don't laugh, it worked.
Edited to add: my background in working steel started by welding and fabricating for a logging side (at age 15) then blacksmithing and forging wood working tools that turned into knifemaking. I'd run just over two ton of welding rod for the logging side by the time I was done and that gave me some important clues about working with various alloys of steels. In other words some nearly catastrophic screw-ups made me start asking some important questions.
Last edited by Bill Harsey; 08-19-2010 at 20:47.
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Bill Harsey is offline
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08-20-2010, 21:33
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#24
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Asset
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 51
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Mr Harsey,
Do you have any tips on determining if a metal is galvanized or not?
I want to start experimenting with scrap metal ( old pipes, plates, etc) but I hear that putting galvanized metal into heat/welding is a no-go.
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Crue is offline
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08-21-2010, 15:27
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#25
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Bladesmith to the Quiet Professionals
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon, Land of the Silver Grey Sunsets
Posts: 3,879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crue
Mr Harsey,
Do you have any tips on determining if a metal is galvanized or not?
I want to start experimenting with scrap metal ( old pipes, plates, etc) but I hear that putting galvanized metal into heat/welding is a no-go.
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Crue,
Good question. Galvanization coating of Iron or steel usually means coated with zinc whether it is done with galvanic (electric) coating, dip coating or hot spray.
Electro plating zinc to steel gives a nice shiny surface, hot dipping is a more silver-gray finish like some steel pipes might have.
Usually an uncoated chunk of iron is very bright or black from fresh manufacturing depending on the final finish from the mill, or dark-rusty from oxidizing. If it rusts easy or is dark, it wasn't zinc plated or the zinc is gone and don't worry about it, much. That last layer of zinc going away on old steel it will look a little rusty. Be advised and careful.
I've gotten a little sick from welding galvanized pipe so heating that stuff up has real hazards (even outdoors) . It's best to not do if possible.
If you have to work on something galvanized, you can grind or "burn" off the zinc in the area that needs work... just be sure to do it outdoors in a nice breeze and stay up wind. When welding or brazing, you have to get fairly close and have your face in the work. That is the bad part if zinc is involved.
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Bill Harsey is offline
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08-22-2010, 06:46
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#26
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Guerrilla Chief
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Near Water
Posts: 560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crue
Mr Harsey,
Do you have any tips on determining if a metal is galvanized or not?
I want to start experimenting with scrap metal ( old pipes, plates, etc) but I hear that putting galvanized metal into heat/welding is a no-go.
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Don't mess with heat and zink caotings!
Fully read the following link about DEATH by metal fumes.
http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor/safety3/index.htm
If you are not familiar with the qualities of ferrous and non ferrous metals you need to do further reading beafore heating.
__________________
Keep a forward momentum.
Last edited by Go Devil; 08-22-2010 at 06:49.
Reason: Content
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Go Devil is offline
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11-15-2010, 19:30
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#27
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Guest
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Got a call today regarding tongs.
Does rebar make for good tongs? Yes, but alot of energy in put forth to create flat, square surfaces in order to place rivots or bolts. Suggested usuing 1/2" or 5/8" square stock.
Current prices have metal cheaper than fuel.
Don't waiste energy, (time), or fuel to heat up #5, or #6 rebar.
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06-16-2011, 22:25
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#28
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Guest
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Bump
Been absent from the thread, but have been busy with projects. Once a new digital camera is acquired or the old one fixed, I'll post a few images.
What has everyone been working on?
Short list for ODA blacksmiths:
Hammer
Anvil
Tongs
Forge, portable, (fire brick / gas).
Who's got what, where?
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06-20-2011, 23:41
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#29
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Guest
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A little hand cart:
1.25" tube steel, box measures 3'(L) x 2'(W) x 1'(H), wheels stand about 4' high.
Center point allows for heavy loads. I filled the box with rocks and steel guessing at about 400 lbs. Tall narrow wheels making for easy sharp turns on rough terrain, (uneven ground, sage brush, etc), is mitigated.
Outside blacksmith shop. The old barn is getting a new roof soon so I made the hand cart to move materials and dunage, figured it could also stand in when fixing fence, carrying hand tools, spools of barbed-wire, come-a-long, etc.
Last edited by wet dog; 06-20-2011 at 23:44.
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06-23-2011, 08:14
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#30
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Guerrilla Chief
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Near Water
Posts: 560
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WD,
That is a great tool you produced!
How did you sort out the spokes and rim, or were these on hand?
__________________
Keep a forward momentum.
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