Quote:
Originally Posted by fng13
Gentlemen,
Thank you for all of your help so far. I am still trying to take this all in.
A few points to address concerns that have been brought up this far.
The 200 yard range limit was my own addition to his specifications. as a starting point as I am unsure of what type of ranges he would be looking at. I imagined across valleys etc, but I wasn't sure. I think that would be the outer limits of where he would think about taking a shot with open sights.
I think based on the suggestions here and as I don't know his budget I am going to search for and present him with several options.
He always mentions the Sharps so that is probably his preference but the lever actions also seem like good choices. He wants something original but the idea of him dragging a historic gun through the brush makes me cringe. I would rather present him with both new and old, he can leave the old hanging above the fire place.
Based on the consensus I think I will try and find something in .45-70 as it seems to be readily available in terms of rifles and ammunition.
Thanks again for the help, I am sure I'll be back with more questions.
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A original Sharps is very expensive, C-sharp or a Shiloh can be had in the $2000 - 3000 range depending on sights (that can be over $600) and furniture.
Other issue is range, very few people can hunt at long range, the longer the range the fewer there are out there. As Reaper pointed our and I think most hunters agree, you want a killing shot, not a wounding shot.
I have two Marlin guide guns, I would use just the iron sights and try to not take a shot over 150 yards, preferably 75 yards. I, also, use Group II loads. The last elk I shot was at 75 yards. Where I live the chances of a long share is rare but possible. We had a bowl where max range was slightly over 800 M. Depending on where I was going, I would either carry my Marlin guide or my Win Mod 70 .338 WM. The Mod 70 were GTG at hitting milk jugs at 600M. I would only take a long shot if I was in that bowl and conditions were 100% favorable. I don't mind passing up a shot, if it is questionable. In Eastern Oregon, shooting a critter is one thing, retrieving it another.
I am a little worse for wear, so I have a quad and trailer set up for hunting. The trailer will haul the quad, the quad can pull the trailer and then I can mount the trailer on front of the quad, tilt the bed and use the wench to pull the gutted elk on it. All without working up a sweat.
The Reaper offers very excellent advice. If he can not consistently hit a paper plate the size of the kill zone of a elk and at the range he will be shooting at, with what ever he chooses, he should not use that firearm. Wait till he has more skill.
Wyoming offers some very open country. Long shots are possible with Creedmore sights, but it takes years of practice to make those shots.
Also to get started, what about deer?
Recommend min. retained muzzle energy to take down a elk is about 2000 ft pounds. A .338 WM has that at 600 M. You can use a ballistic calculator to determine what the energy will be for what he chooses to use.
The elk we have in Oregon, is a very tasty elk.