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Old 02-20-2013, 11:53   #1
DJ Urbanovsky
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How do ya'll sharpen the custom knives that leave your shop?


I do everything on the grinder. Single speed 2x72 Wilton Square Wheel. I set the edge bevels with 120 grit. I feel that 120 gives just the right amount of "tooth" for a good user edge. Then it's over the the bench grinder to polish. Usually three or four passes per side on the buff is all it takes. I use a solid felt buff, usually soft, although medium works well also. Buff gets loaded with emery compound. I do not like stitched or loose buffs because threads work their way loose and then can end up whacking this annoying cross hatch pattern up on the bevels and flats. Once I've polished the edge, I take and set the edge nearest the handle in the corner of a 2x4, apply pressure, and then pull the blade through that cut all the way to the tip. I do that two or three times. Then I'll check the edge by touch, do the fingernail test, shave some hair off my hand/arm, then cut some paper and shave some packing peanuts.


What angle(s) do you use on your tactical knives?


Depends on what is best for the blade and the user. Could be anywhere from 20-45. More obtuse obviously being better suited for hard use. You get a feel for it once you've done it a bunch. I don't use any gauges or guides or jigs or anything like that for sharpening, it's all freehand.


Do you prefer a hollow, convex or flat grind?


I like, carry, and use all three. That said, my customs are hollow chisel, and my mid-techs are flat V.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:58   #2
alelks
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You're suppose to sharpen them?
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Old 02-20-2013, 14:40   #3
Dusty
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Originally Posted by alelks View Post
You're suppose to sharpen them?
If they're Barbarian-made, not very often.
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Old 02-24-2013, 12:03   #4
x SF med
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Originally Posted by alelks View Post
You're suppose to sharpen them?
Keep them honed, and it's not often you have to do a full sharpening.

recutting an edge after reshaping (by hand) due to improper use... I'm not going to mention names, Crip, but you know who you are... is difficult, since you have to match the original angles, and then hone the edge... no grinders, just stones and diamond steels when I fix blade tips.

Honing/ normal sharpening -Norton 2 sided 10" stone and a bench strop with green polishing compound. Recutting - CRKT diamond wedge, EZ-lap 8" diamond, DMT folding diamond (blue/red), Norton stone and bench strop.... occasionally, triangular files, mill bastards and emery boards/paper... depends on the steel and the geometry. Quick field honing... Lansky or Smith's triangular ceramic sticks...
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Last edited by x SF med; 02-24-2013 at 12:05.
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