[Bill Harsey]

I just remembered, some of you guys pride yourself on being kinda resourceful.
This is a good thing however when I mentioned kerosene for the sharpening stone, I meant plain old lamp oil kerosene. This doesn't mean that I recommend you use the stuff from both the fixed and rotor winged fuel oil dispensers you may be in proximity of.
This stuff has more volatile organic compounds added and is probably not good to breath if you don't have to.


FOR FIELD SHARPENING I change gears pretty fast. I to use a different approach than in the shop to get the same result, much as many of you already do. I use the now common diamond sharpeners that are small and lightweight.
Here is how I sharpen when away from the shop.

Hold the knife stationary and move the sharpening stone. Seated is best so I can brace my knife holding arm on a leg. Do not stick knife in leg.

I work the edge of the knife with the diamond stone like I am using a file. The important step here is to look and see what the stone is doing on the edge.

Your sharpening stone usually makes a slightly brighter fresh mark on the edge when you start. This is when you make the adjustments by feel to set up the angle you want to sharpen at.

You can see where your sharpening while your working. At the bench we have to stop, take the knife off the stone and turn it over to see what was done. Advantage, Field Sharpening.

When sharpening you have to keep the same angle to get a knife sharp. This means doing the same thing until it's done, not changing the angle of stone until it sharpens the edge.

This is why thicker knives are harder to sharpen than thin knives- there is more steel to remove.