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TR has got most, if not all consideration well covered. Your idea of a small 2000-3000 “solar generator” and focusing on specific needs, refrigeration, is great. By doing that you avoid a lot of other clutter information. I use computer UPSs for isolated backups like my tankless water heater that runs on propane but uses 3ah power for electronics controls. So as long as I have municipal water flowing, I can take a hot shower to get the cob webs out and deal with all the rest of emergency power needs. And of course hot water for other stuff. A similar setup could be used for refer/freezer needs. This type of backup doesn’t shut off when not needed though. So even though your freezer will stay below 0 for days if not opened, you’ll still be eating up your battery. YMMV.
If you’re a DIY type of person, you can get a power inverter and wire up as many batteries as you feel you need and take advantage of LiThium Iron phosphate LiFePo, technologies for adding longevity. One of the other threads has more on battery systems for off grid. LiFePo batteries are $$$$ but they protect themselves from complete discharge unlike lead acid.
If you are considering whole house or random circuits in your house, be aware that any transformer, adapter for power, and any device that waits for a remote controller to turn it on, that is on the circuit will eat power with no “actual use”. And any GFCI/AFCI circuit will eat power at you breaker panel (they make a lot of heat in the panel). Knowing what’s using power in the background, vampire loads, will have your backup working longer. Simple solution is unplug everything not actively in use.
Conservation is also an easy and fairly cheap win for making backup solutions last longer. LED bulbs, and unscrewing the excess one is huge. One example is the kitchen light switch that turns on 6 lights!! If you only need 2 or 1, unscrew the extras if on e-power! Or all the time. I have an entry chandelier that has 18!!!!! F’n light bulbs in it!! WTFO?!!
Using reflective bubble wrap stapled to the inside of roof joists can help both keep heat out in summer and in during winter. Home Depot sells the stuff by the rolls and it’s easy to staple in place. You can also use it for wrapping a tank style hot water heater. I’ve used it to line a cardboard box as a cheap beer cooler. Works pretty good for all the above listed uses.
If heat is an issue in your region, the state of Florida did a study, using a white rubberized coating to “paint” your roof will reduce the building temp significantly. And the rubbery stuff also might help seal some holes. Black roofs soak up heat.
Sorry, got a little off topic on you specific post but some info may help in the larger scope of your situation.
Hope this helps, I’ve had to learn a lot about dealing with sketchy power supplying medical facilities over the years. The grid isn’t nearly as stable as peeps want to believe.
YMMV,
G2
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