[The Reaper]

(Continued)

The price of the weapons system must also be considered. If the rifle is inexpensive, but mags, rails, etc. are expensive or not available, it may not be a bargain. Generally, I would stick with a military-type rifle in a common military caliber. The rifles we are discussing run from $400 to $3000, plus mags and accessories. Mags can be as little as $5 each up to $100 or more, depending on the weapon. With a SIG or SR-25, it can be very expensive to accumulate the 8-20 mags that I like to have for my long guns, along with all of the rest of the gear.

In case you have not detected up to this point, the weapon that I believe provides the optimum mix of reliability, accuracy, ergonomics, and affordability is the AR series. It just feels right in my hand, and will do what I need an assault rifle or carbine to do. Another advantage is that the 7.62 versions use exactly the same controls and muscle memory to operate, and in some cases, even parts are interchangable. Thus everything from a dedicated shorty like the CQB-R to an M-4, to an SPR, to an M-16, to a 7.62 shorty, to a mid-length 7.62 carbine, to a Mark 11, Mod 0 7.62 sniper rifle works almost exactly the same, allowing transition for what is essentially an SMG all the way through a dedicated sniper rifle without relearning a new manual of arms and set of controls that are significantly different. Pick it up and if you are familiar with one, you can run any of them just as well.

Brands

There are many makers of AR type rifles and carbines out there. While a good maker may occasionally have a poor rifle go out the door, a poor maker rarely puts out a good one. An inexpensive AR is normally a false economy which you will pay for repeatedly. The best ARs I have used lately have come from LMT and Rock River. Armalite, Colt, and Bushmaster normally make decent rifles, but occasionally have problems. If you start with good receivers, you can build a good AR with quality parts, but it will be much easier (and cheaper, unless you plan to buy the tools) to buy the upper with the barrel already installed. Other manufacturers may make a decent rifle as well, but before I bought one, I would ask for a money back guarantee from the store I was buying from.

Parts

Some people think that parts are parts. I believe that there is a difference. In many cases, “government” or “surplus” parts are in fact, rejected or stolen. Buy your parts from reputable sources. Brownell’s would be a good source for quality parts. Gun shows may not be. Caveat emptor!

Optioning the weapon

Upper

The M-4gery is one of the most common configurations of the AR. It is a good set-up that allows people to have a weapon that approximates the weapon that the HSLD troops carry. It is light, quick, and effective at ranges out to 300 meters. IMHO, for a number of reasons, the 16” variant is the one to have. If you are going to be primarily shooting M856 Tracer or match bullets of 75 grains or more, then you need the 1x7” twist barrel. If you are going to shoot a mix of ammo from 50 to 75 grains, I prefer the 1x9” twist. If you have a full-auto lower, or plan to blast away mags as fast as you can, you need the heavy barrel. If not, you don’t. The chrome-lined chrome moly barrels may be slightly less accurate than the stainless steel barrels, but they are also lower maintenance. For the carbine, or a tactical weapon, I prefer the chrome lined version. The M203 cut down is an affectation, unless you have an M203 or plan to get one. Frankly, if you can afford a 203 and the ammo, you can afford another upper. While the standard issue A2 birdcage is a good flash suppressor, the Phantom and Vortex are better. I do not like the carrying handle on my uppers if I plan to mount an optical sight. They are nice to get as you can chop them down with a saw to make a good economical detachable rear sight. The Colt uppers have double heat shielded handguards which are somewhat larger than most other brands. As I prefer rail type fore ends, I would skip the more expensive handguards. I have a box full of takeoffs. The forward assist is controversial. Some people love them and some hate them. While it is possible to build a flat sided upper, I prefer to have the FA, just in case. The POF/DSA/HK piston driven uppers are nice, but are currently very expensive. Unless you have the extra bucks, I would skip them and get a quality flat-topped upper with a 16” 1x9” straight profile barrel, capped with a Phantom flash suppressor. If I were not using NVDs, I would probably run a tritium front sight post from Trijicon.

Bolt Carrier Group

Inside the upper are the guts of the rifle, the bolt carrier assembly. This is one of the areas most commonly involved in malfunctions. Get a good quality bolt and bolt carrier. I prefer the chrome plated ones when I can find them for ease of cleaning. I also like the O-ring mod to the extractor to give it a little extra grip on the rim. There is no need for titanium firing pin or other affectations, unless you like giving money away. The charging handle is your contact with the bolt carrier assembly. There is a fine line between making the charging handle easier to access and making it large enough to be in the way. I like the PRI Big Latch installed on a normal carrying handle. If you are going to be shooting with a can on the rifle, or have the extra money, the PRI Gas Buster is the best charging handle available and it already has the Big Latch installed.

Lowers

The lower and upper should be of the same brand, unless you are going to be able to mate them in person. A few thousandths here and there and pretty soon, your rifle is sloppy or hard to put together or take apart. A good lower fit is an important thing. Use quality components in your lower. You do not want your rifle doubling, not going boom when it should or worse yet, going off when it shouldn’t. Get the RRA or comparable two-stage match trigger. You should be a much better shooter with it. It is hard to shoot well with a creepy, nine pound trigger. I like the Falcon Ergo Sure Grip (it also comes with a Gapper), but some find that other grips meet their needs better. The Otis Grip Cleaning Kit will also fit in the Falcon, if you load it just right. I am not a fan of the winter trigger guard, unless you wear heavy gloves a lot. Ambidextrous safeties are a good thing if you are left handed, or anticipate being so. Do NOT use M-16 parts unless you have a registered Class Three weapon. As a matter of fact, as discussed extensively on another thread, there are only a couple of uses for a fully automatic weapon, other than blasting for fun, and it is hard to justify the $10,000 for a registered M-16 lower just to do that.

Stocks

While the fixed buttstock is stronger, a collapsible buttstock s very handy if the weapon is to be carried in and out of tight quarters, like vehicles, aircraft, structures, etc., or you wear a mix of heavy gear like armor, vests, winter clothing, etc. It also fits an assortment of different users better, like armory weapons have to. Among the collapsible stocks, I prefer the feel and function of the Crane SOPMOD buttstock on my carbines, though some prefer the Magpul stock.

BUIS

Every tactical weapon needs back-up iron sights. All optics can be broken, and most are battery powered. After using cutdown carrying handles, Knights, ARMS, Troys, and PRIs, I have found the Troy to be my first choice for both rear and front sights, if the front is not fixed. It maintains a lower profile and is easier to use than most of the others. It is not spring loaded though, and the ARMS #40 L, which would be my second choice, is, if you like that feature.

Optical Sights

Optical sights are like opinions, but here goes. I have used the Aimpoint, EOTech, Trijicon reflex, TX-30, ACOGs, Leupolds, Elcans, and an assortment of copies of them. I like the EOTech 552/553 for CQB and close work out to 100 meters, and the Trijicon TA-31 RCO ACOG if the ranges will go beyond that. You are welcome to drop $300-$1500 each to decide for yourself.

Mounts

To keep the expensive optics securely mounted and zeroed, I prefer the LaRue mounts. I have used most of the others and prefer the LaRue for security and repeatability of zero. And Mark is just a great American.

The micro dot sights like the Docter Optic and J Point are nice options if your primary is not optimal for CQB or you need a backup. Some put them directly on top of the primary optic, at which point your cheek weld becomes a chin weld. I prefer the 1:30 mount off the forend like the Yankee Hill Machine mount.

Foreend

The foreend, as I stated, needs to be railed. I have the KAC RIS and RAS, the PRI, the LaRue, the SIR, the SureFire, and a couple of manufacturer’s private brands. If you want a free-float tube, I prefer the LaRue. If you are on a tighter budget, or do not need the free-float capability, it is hard to argue against the SureFire, which installs easily, locks up very tightly, and is reasonably priced. The SureFire uses sexy looking ladder covers, which are very nice unless the weapon gets hot. If you are going to be doing any blasting, get a set of the larger plastic covers and install them before proceeding, unless you like the ladder burns on your support hand.