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Originally Posted by Sten
My numbers, I figured the components to reload .45 ACP will cost about .13 cents a round, is that a realistic number? Quick math told me that .223 will provide a bigger round savings, but quick math is notoriously inaccurate. I have a bunch of unknowns, for example how many times can .45 brass be reloaded safely how about .223? I have read that buying in bulk will provide big savings, how much is "bulk".
I would like some kind of powder check (no squib or doubles). Is this check a gimmick or is a functional piece of equipment?
Also, if you could list the accessories that you have found indispensable that would be greatly appreciated.
These are my reloading needs: .45 ACP .223 win (match grade). After rereading Gene's post, am I to assume that the progressives are not good at rifle ammo loading? 9mm and perhaps .44 magnum down the line.
Thank you! TJ
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Sten:
I will trust my old Dillon 450 for short range and practice rifle loads only. I haven't found the Dillon 550 or Hornady Auto Progressive capable of seating primers just under the rim with any consistency with rifle brass. With a bolt rifle and Palma Chambers, you really have to get the primer just under the rim or your bolt face will drag on the primer. Haven't found this to be a real issue with gas guns of service chambers due to slop in the chambers and a heavy bolt slamming the cartridge into battery. To a point of course. If that primer is seated too far out of the cartridge the bolt will detonate said primer and that is a sad face if the bolt hasn't gone into battery.
Given the things you are doing with your Fulton carbine, I would buy cases of decent surplus ammo instead of loading 5.56. Unless you intend to shoot the National Match Course or perhaps Three Gun with targets at 300 yards, issued M-193 ball will shoot just fine from your carbine and the difference in price from surplus 193 and handloaded 5.56 is insignificant in terms of time spent. Also, loading 5.56 is a pain due to the small size of the components.
I never -- never -- max load anything I have ever shot. End of statement. I retain ten fingers and both eyes after 25 years of handloading anything from BP cartridge rifles through modern centerfire, double rifles, and modern magnum rifle. Pistol the same way. There is no need to max load anything. Generally, max loads give marginal increases in velocity and significant decreases in accuracy. Pistol or rifle -- doesn't matter. Avoid the top end of any loading manual. It isn't necessary, doesn't give performance, and only stresses the rifle and brass.
I have .45 ACP that has been fired with medium loads so many times I can't count. With straight walled pistol cases of moderate pressures, we shoot them until they crack. Very distinct sound when a cracked case hits concrete or the ground. I won't hesitate to shoot straight walled pistol stuff until the primer falls out when seating or the case cracks when fired.
Centerfire Rifle is another matter. If you shoot it at moderate velocities from a bolt rifle of good quality and chamber, you will shoot it fifteen plus times without a problem. I throw out such brass when the primer seats way too easily. What is 'too easily'? No resistance when seating the primer and the primer falls out of the case if the case is tapped on the rim.
Gas guns don't get the same case life. I refuse to shoot any brass of any type out of my M-14 if it had been shot more than three times. 5.56 I have gotten five or six loads out of then I throw it away out of fear even if it seats primers just fine and shows no signs of headspace separation. I don't trust gas guns worth a damn when it comes to brass wear. Again, I would rather retain my rifles, ten fingers and two eyes, than try to get another load out of a piece of Lake City brass worth about two cents. Oh yes, don't buy any 'surplus' 5.56 brass as most of it was fired out of M-249's. Machineguns will stretch brass due to sloppy headspace. If you decide to save a couple of cents per hundred by buying once fired GI brass, invest in stuck case extractors and do wear ballistic eye protection when shooting. Hollis and I have been there -- it ain't worth it. Buy brand new brass for the rifle.
I check cases for powder loads two ways. First, I use a powder that is ideal for the cartridge and second, I use a load where if one double charges, the powder spills out of the case -- a common occurrance with progressive presses. I also visually check rifle cases after charging to ensure a good case fill -- even when I use a progressive.
If you intend on buying a progressive press, you best intend on using ball powder for pistol and rifle or you will have problems. Winchester makes fine ball powders for pistol and rifle. Excellent powder for pistols -- poor powder for High Power rifle. Great powder for bench rest rifle. Go figure!
Hollis can start out on equipment issues. I don't care what company makes the thing as long as it works. I trust Redding with total confidence. I trust Hornady more than Dillon. RCBS and Lyman are about the same -- I won't buy either. I do buy some Lee gear but I also choose carefully with Lee. Lee makes some awesome loading gear at real cheap prices. They also make awesomely poor gear at cheap prices.
Decisions, decisions, decisions.
Research things, elimiate money as an issue, and trust yoursefl when making such decisions. You will find the money issue works out just as you envisioned and you get gear you trust.
Gene