Painting: mixing Krylon and Rustoleum Enamel?
 

Since the guy who did this tutorial is also a member I though I would ask here.
http://www.optactical.com/weaponpainting.html

As you probably know, Krylon discontinued their ultra flat colours which had IRC 12 colors in favor of the new Krylon Camouflage line which has only 4 colors (black, dark brown, sand/khaki and OD).

Trying to fill the void between dark brown and khaki I googled left and right and I've found that the Rustoleum Enamel flat/satin series has a lot of different colors and some in-between dark brown and khakis and they're also available locally. I've bough some Dark taupe which apparently is very similar to Magpul's FDE.

So have you guys experimented with the stuff ? I know it's apparently a bit harder to remove than Krylon but would it cause problems using it for stripping over a base coat of krylon ?

or should I inspire myself from this one:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubb...872#Post127872 and stay with a 3 colour krylon camo?

rustoleum takes FOREVER to cure, but it's a tougher finished product. seems like it can take anywhere from 3-6 weeks before its really good and cured, and thats sitting in front of a good space heater in my shop. krylon, by contrast, is generally ready for action in 15 minutes with a light coat, or a few hours at the most, for thick/multiple coats. so i really only use rustoleum for magazines anymore, and krylong for guns. it also seems to depend a little on the color, but i dont keep track of which does what.

rustoleums got a lot better color selection, but im not too picky about camo colors- the krylon khaki is really light, as you said, so i just "mist" the gun to get some color splotchiness. doesn't get nearly so light that way.

so it's a trade-off... rustoleum definately comes in a lot more camo-compatible colors and holds up better, but it puts your weapon out of action for a long time. way longer than i have patience for.

here's one i did not too long ago in krylon... the stock was already "coyote" and the VFG was OD or FG.. the rail was DD's poop colored version of "FDE." i dont remember what color the battlegrip was. black, i think.

Attachment 13232

also, keep in mind- the rustoleum satin paint is still fairly glossy.. in fact, i did some mags recently in forest green that almost seemed like they were high-gloss. a really fine, light sanding will fix that, but you also lose some tuffness by sanding- does a few months worth of wear in one fell swoop.

hope that helps

Do they still make Bowflage? That's what we always used and it worked just fine. It is relatively durable, but it is easy to remove deliberately.

Broke down and did it the big AR10T last week. I had practiced on an old POS tasco scope before but I was kinda nervous.

Results were pretty damn nice especially for a first time. I only regretted not doing the rubber variable power ring, but it's already damn hard to rotate as it is I didn't want to paint over it and lose more grip.

Sadly it was just a bit too light for my AO but I like it. I'll probably do the M14 and scope but in a more dark/greenish tins. I might buy these and try a multicam: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...ct/CAMO_PAINTS apparantly they're fast drying enamel.

I used Krylon Camo Khaki, then dark brown then OD. After than I did some spots with the rustolium enamel in dark taupe. I'll update with pics tomorrow.

I have no idea how my post doubled. Sorry.

Here are a couple of links. Most important thing. Make sure the Weapon is scrubbed clean. IMO, I wouldn't use paint at all. Cerokote is available to the public. It's a little expensive but well worth it. Just do a search on here for Cerokote or search threads started by me.

http://www.snipercountry.com/hottips/Rifle_Camo.htm

http://www.optactical.com/weaponpainting.html

While cerakote is the best it does requires advanced knowledge, special equipement for preparation and the coating is very hard to remove which is great if you want to stay with a particular colour (ex: refinishing a pistol) but isn't perfect if you want to change or it it was botched (too light/too dark, etc).


Either way this is mine:

http://st1650.com/AR10/1.JPG

It had already heavy scratches.

http://st1650.com/AR10/3.JPG

After paint job:

http://st1650.com/AR10/P1010164.JPG

http://st1650.com/AR10/P1010165.JPG