M16A2 Stock removal
 

I've tried Google but nothing with specific information comes up.

1. What tools (special?) are needed to properly remove and re-install the stock on an M16A2?

2. How hard is it to do?

3. What parts would I need to convert the M16A2 fixed stock to the adjustable M4 type? Would I need a special tool to attach an M4 type stock?

Thanks!

If all you want to do is remove the buttstock, you only need a flat blade screwdriver. Look on the butt and the screw on the top is the one you need to take out to get the stock off the buffer tube. When you slide it off... make sure you don`t lose the detent spring for the takedown pin, you`ll see it as you start sliding the stock off. It`s very simple to do.

To change it over to a collapsable stock you will need to change a few parts. You will need a carbine buffer tube and stock, a carbine buffer and spring, a carbine reciever end plate, and a castle nut. You can tighten the castle nut with a drift and mallet.. but it works alot better if you have the correct wrench. There are several companies that sell whole kits to change over to a collapsable stock from a fixed, it all depends on what flavor of stock you wanna go with. If you have any kind of mechanical skills you can swap em out very easy.

If you have any questions.. just ask away or shoot me a PM.

CS

CS pretty much covered it.

Calling the parts names like buffer tube, stock, buffer spring ect makes me cringe.:D

Receiver Extension
Sliding Buttstock Assembly
Action Spring
;)

Thanks CS! :)

This is a kit I found. Any issues with it?

http://blackrifleworks.com/ar15-m16-...ack-p-207.html

I'll buy the spanner wrench.

I prefer just to get another lower and build it so that I have both types of stock available.

Nothing wrong with that kit, though the Colts and LMTs are a bit better toleranced and will take the SOPMOD buttstock.

You might look at the various aftermarket offerings, and play around with a few variants like Mag Pul's stocks before you buy the basic version.

TR

Thanks TR!

Here the LMT kit:

http://www.quanticotactical.com/asp/...MSN=Buttstocks

Will I need a new buffer & spring going from an M16A2?

The M-4 uses a shorter spring of different rating, and I would recommend that you get a Heavy buffer, if not double heavy.

LMT stuff is the best.

Who built the upper?

TR

BLUF: Stay away from the DPMS AR15 multi tool if you're getting it just for a stock swap.

I'm no expert on the matter, but I do have the tool, and it sucks for tightening the castle nut. The tool appears to be a low-grade steel (maybe cast iron) that was liberally coated with a polymer finish to make it almost impossible to get a good grip on the castle nut. If the finish is worn down at all, it just scratches up the nut itself.

Sorry Sir.. didn`t have my armorers manual with me at 0300 while I was looking at my rifle.. :D I`ll try to do better next time.

:D Just about the only thing that makes me cringe worse is being called Sir, save that one for The Reaper!

Also to Echo the comments about staying away from the DPMS Wrench, its Caca, Merde ect, no matter what language you use.

What I use at work and recommend for anyone who is going to do alot of stock changing is the Brownell's M16/M4 buttstock tool (PN#080-000-291)

This has a flat tip screwdriver, a wrench to remove Rifle length Receiver Extensions and a wrench that works both with the Castle Style and older Car-15 RE Nuts.

If you only have M4's or want a field tool for M4's with Castle Nuts then the AR15/M4 Carbine Stock Wrench also from Brownell's (PN#739-000-010) will work, but can not stand up to alot of work. I broke 3 of them converting 100 A2's to M4 configuration.

Psywar1-0,

How did you loosen the reciver extention (buffer tube) from the LR? Were any of the 100 hard to get off? Any tips for doing it?

TR, UR was made by Colt.

Thanks!

IIRC, the end of the AR buffer tube has parallel machined flats, for a wrench. It might be a 3/4" or something smaller. I think the Brownell's tools have the proper sized wrench jaws, but I do not have one handy. A strap wrench might work, if you do not want to use an open-ended wrench.

Always helps to put some penetrating oil on the retaining threads well before you start the removal task.

Hope that helps.

TR

TR is correct, all you need is a 5/8" wrench to remove it. It isn`t that hard to remove. If you don`t have a vise and block to hold it.. you can just lay it flat on a bench and break it loose in that manner.

CS

TR & CS,

Thanks! I'll do as instructed.

One thing I forgot to mention.... if you pull the tube off. Make sure you either have your hand in place or use something to make sure you have the buffer retainer and spring kept in place. I usually start slowly unscrewing the tube while I keep my finger over them to keep them from flying to who knows where.

CS