Home Security
 

How do you plan to secure and defend your home?

If you follow the adage of "deter, detect, delay, and defeat," how would you accomplish this?

Deter - House sits well back from the road on a hill, gravel drive, not much in the front yard, no obvious signs of wealth. Video surveillance camera by driveway entrance and video warning sign. Bright exterior floodlighting on just two switches covers most of the property, and all entrances/exits. Automatic dusk till dawn exterior lighting of entrances. Plan to add remote IR lighting for cameras and night vision. Selected interior lights left on at night and others are on timers. TV or radio on during day and most of the night. Thorny plants under windows. No ladders stored outside. Windows above basement level too tall to climb. All exterior doors locked but one, that one locked when I am not home. Chain and cable secure gate periodically. Garage is closed and doors locked automatically if we are not in it working. Front entrance requires a climb of more than 20 steps. Alarm monitoring signs by all entrances. Garage and main entrance are on back of house out of view from the street. Shrubbery kept trimmed below level of windows.

Detect - Driveway and blind spots covered by annunciators. Video surveillance wired into home TVs. Major views cover likely avenues of approach. Alarm system on all exterior doors and windows, set to chime when door or window opened. Gravel drive noisy to climb. Driveway passes by bedroom windows. Dog barks when outside noises heard.

Delay - Slow driving on gravel drive and two significant drainages create natural speed bumps, both easily covered from above from most of the front of the house, including Master BR. House is well off the road. Doors and windows locked. Windows are casement. Exterior doors are steel or fiberglass with 3" screws in hinges and bolt hardware. Frames are reinforced. Plan to add pockets for 2x6 door bars on steel doors. Deadbolt throws are boxed. Doors with glass have double cylinder deadbolts. Front door requires significant climb, enters into sunroom with locked and deadbolted interior doors into house. Main entrance is up several steps and could represent an excellent trap. Need portcullis though. Interior doors are 8-0 solid core and critical ones are secured with keyed locks. Frames are reinforced with double or triple studs. Multiple interior routes of defense, delay, and withdrawal or attack. Access to any bedroom requires breaching at least two or more locked doors. Valuables are secured in safes and secure areas. Garage doors lock automatically with deadbolts. No burglary tools left outside. Family briefed and drilled on emergency plan. Fire extinguishers and emergency flashlights in likely areas. Vehicles are locked, and no handheld remotes are left in cars.

Defend - Owner and family members well-armed and trained with a variety of weapons, including firearms. Good 360 degree fields of fire. Brick exterior. Need mouseholes, but the wife won't let me install them. Yet. Would like larger, more aggressive dog. Hardened interior structures for cover. I'll just leave it at that and save a few surprises.

Thoughts?

TR

EDITED: I entered this thread from the New Posts search and did not catch that it was in the SF Fieldcraft forum until posting. Please remove if inappropriate for me to post here.

Typical suburban matchstick and vinyl house on a corner lot.

Deter:
No signs of wealth. 2 dogs that bark to include a proper German import GSD that greets every doorbell ring (UPS and FedEx stopped knocking long ago).
We keep the yard post light on and lights by the garage are on for 8 hours after sunset (9pm most of the summer). Impact resistant glass for the windows. No alarm but sign for one near the front entrance. Thorny rose bushes near front windows and trimmed low. 6ft privacy fence out back.

Detect:
Master bedroom looks out to unobstructed front yard, entrance, and driveway. And dogs add to detect by barking at odd sounds (ask the neighbors teenage kids about coming home after midnight). Entire back yard visible from my son's room next ours.

Defend: If they get in, the first floor can be theirs. Stairway is narrow and enclosed creating a fatal funnel for anyone coming up. Defensive position is top of the stairs covering down with rifle and back up hand gun. Wife corrals kids into master bedroom, calls in the reaction force, and defends if necessary with own weapons.

Not perfect but what we have to work with....

Any thoughts?
 

How about razor wire and claymores? In all seriousness, TR, I can't think of anything you've left out. With what you've described, looks pretty darn secure!

I have a low double silt fence remaining around the front yard left over from construction.

I cut the fabric down, but the 24-36" of picketed hogwire left behind is a real PITA at night if you don't know where it is. Razor wire would be nice but I am told it is cosmetically unattractive and will reduce my curb appeal.

Tanglefoot in high grass would be much better. A couple hundred rolls of razor wire might attract attention.

Claymores are illegal and I don't have any. A couple of days without rule of law, and I might remember a helpful chemistry class though.

Lest you get the wrong impression, I like people just fine, when I invite them.

And no problem posting on this thread. This forum just seemd to be one of the more tactical ones.

TR

Deter/Defense:

I have thought about this one before from a more out of the box "mad scientist" perspective. What if you took apart a couple of high power microwaves and placed the microwave emitting isolators on old parabolas, something along the line of a one meter direct TV dish. Then used the dishes to surround the property with crossing lanes of fire. The only troubles I could imagine is a good power source with good backup. The power source would need to be heavily defended or self sustaining in case someone realized its weakness.

Finally, making sure there is no rear and side lobe emission from the devices. Or at least keeping the home dwelling away from the high power band.

If you had some wild beasts nearby, or just happen to be under siege by some Wiley " marauders", it would sure keep them back for awhile. I know it sounds like fantasy, but it would really not be all that difficult to do. As far as I know, I would think it would take awhile for someone to really legally care about it...DOE or maybe FCC if it caused jamming issues. Technically though, you could get a license for the system from the FCC. I know people locally that have some pretty powerful radar systems for hobby.

As a disclaimer, I swear I am not some nut case. I have just spent way too much time on shift considering the "spectrum" in my job field. ;)

What about 3m security film over exterior windows? I don't have first hand experience but I have read good things about it.

Also, depending on length of driveway, a hidden motion alarm that signals to your bedroom if someone is coming up the drive might be worthwhile.

My in-laws have that and they can then open up there security camera monitor and see who is coming up the lane. A little bit discreet early warning.

Too many windows, so too much money right now.

That is what a driveway annunciator is. A wireless alert motion sensor with a chime in the house. You can put them pretty much anywhere and they will chime to let you know something warm is moving. I have a couple of them here.

TR

I live in an apartment. Entrance is on the ground level into a foyer. The main apartment is located on the second floor. You come in, and then up the stairs you go. What sold me on it is that there is a deck immediately to one side of the main entrance. Either the wife or I can come out onto the deck and look down and converse with whoever is knocking. We never have to go near the door to see who is here.

Apologies, did not realize.

TR, you obviously have a strong position (location) in which to prepare so well. I can't see if you stated multi-story or just elevated entry but do you and family have an adequate escape plan from multiple locations. If not just the need to escape fire but a tactical entry team of the good or bad guys and rally points inside/outside?


I've done as well as possible with a congested residential house, just making mine the hard target: go somewhere else.

My video and alert system (annunciatiors) are wired to smart phone (text messaging) and wireless devices for remote viewing activation of audible alerts (alarms) and can pull up day/night cameras anywhere with at least 3G service (4G/LTE better real time.) (It's my system no paid monitoring service)

I do like the idea of reinforced window film and have considered as next step in progress.

Sounds like a fantastic set up TR, good stuff. I don't have a spread like that to reinforce, but here is what I have so far (just moved in 3 months ago):

Deter: Unassuming house among other houses (which are too close together but separated by fencing). I don't have many options for deterrence.

Detect: I took a page out of hajji's playbook and made some pressure plates of sorts (crush wire) that send it's signal to a wireless doorbell receiver, waterproofed them and set them up in both common and random areas around the exterior of the house. Cheap and effective. I would love to set up video surveillance, but we cannot afford it yet.

Delay: Not many options here either, but there is only one way in, and one way out of town (very small town).

Defend: The wife and I are equipped with the knowledge, skills, abilities, and "tools" to render multiple attackers useless quickly.

I read..I like...

I replaced the rear door with a metal one and the front door with a composite. Both the front and rear , I have reinforced the door jams with a metal dual lock plate. 7" screws now hold the doors in there frames. On the inside I screwed in a metal plate that is 3" wide, 12" long, 1/4" thick, over were the bolts of the locks slide in. Harder to just kick in.

Doors stay lock always, got the kids and wife doing that also. Lights are on at night outside in the hallway to the front door and in the yard.

Doors are alarmed at night.

SA all of the time..I am a nosy fuck when is comes to cars around my place.

I sleep good at night.... :D

Cultivating a hedge of Bristly Greenbrier below windows and around choke points will prove effective.
Natural razor wire.
http://dendro.cnre.vt.edu/dendrology...eet.cfm?ID=575

Reinforced door jambs with hinge plates at main entries or a door bar can slow dynamic entry.

Sand filled stud spaces around defendable areas.

Sheltered egress should situation go further south.

Windows??

The new standard for wind storm windows & doors may be an alternate or augmenter to the home security system. We had storm shutters in the Keys, But some of the neighbors had the new stuff and I can attest to their robustness. The windows must be able to withstand more than a guy with a sledge hammer. Not bullet proof, but a real good deterrent.. Because of the added weight of the units, the higher wind load, there is a need to re-think door & window framing. I think the min is double 2x6's for the king/jack & header studs. They also use longer nail/screws with smaller intervals.

http://www.floridadisaster.org/hrg/c..._standards.asp


Razor Wire??

You need to be a little careful with overt un-manned force.. Most jurisdictions do not think bobby traps are with-in the SYG legal limits..

Claymores are OK if labeled in at least 5 languages.. :D


Lights??

Homes in the Keys are built on small lots. Ours was 90 x 100, most are 60 x 100,, SMALL and on a 60ft wide canal.. Our neighbor wanted to setup proximity lights on his dock and front yard. We had had a rash of water borne threats. Guys were rowing up the canals and unbolting lowers of the engine. With battery operated hammer drills,, "gone in 60t's seconds". It's a quick way to make 2K+ a pop.

Anyway,, we also have deer, chickens, Gambian rats, and big iguanas in the 'hood'. By the end of the 1st week, he tore all the lights out. His wife (AND NEIGHBORS) were not happy about 100K flood lights flashing on/off every 30 minutes. He could not get the sensitivity set low enough for chickens & rats..

He ended up using proximity sensors that beeped in the house. Still had sensitivity problems,, but only in his bedroom.. Everyone else was very very happy.. :D

Might want to consider securing the DVR for the video system and its back up power sourse. You also mentioned the security cameras are wired into the televisions, thats good. Can the default on your TVs be set to the security system so that when they are turned on (bump in the night) they automatically go to the feed from the security system?

Back to the security of the DVR and back up batteries. A good technique is to power the DVR from a car battery that is connected to a maintainer. If the power to the house is cut, the cameras and the DVR will still run for over a awhile.

Secure the DVR, battery and maintainer inside a gun safe. If not, when the bad guys do get inside the house they could just take the DVR.

Many security systems are still using coper phone lines for reporting, newer systems use wireless modems for reporting. Again, thinking of the smart bad guys that cut power to the house and phone lines.

The hasp on the shed in my back yard has been electrified. Some puks broke into it a couple of times when I first moved in. Second time my cameras capture very clear images of the two hoodlums. The Fayetteville police didn't want the imagery. After that I electrified the hasp from the inside. A switch in the garage shuts it off. Family has been briefed. Since electrifying that hasp over eight years ago, not a single successfull break in has occured. I used a transformer for a horse corral fence. Not sure of the legality, but it seems to work very well.

You already know what I'm going to say, so we'll keep it between us, LMAO!

Need the house set up from 'I am Legend'

I just got back from the vet with my 8.5 month old female Rottweiler. She's 71 lbs now and has a nice DEEP bark. Unfortunately she's just too big to keep inside so I purchased a nice 8ft x 24 ft galvanized covered kennel with a 2" raised floor. I'll eventually put down concrete on 2/3 of the kennel.

If anyone is looking for a nice kennel these guys have good stuff.

I decided to go with the pro version since it's galvanized.

http://www.k9kennelstore.com/

I have 3 Westies that can hear a mouse fart at the far end of the house, find it and kill it in utter darkness. Their back up is a naked old guy with a .45 and a flashlight....

Now that's a picture I won't be able to get out of my head for a few days. :eek:

My eyes hurt thinking about those poor Westies.. :D

Good feedback guys, and a few new tricks to consider.


We have a full basement and a loft upstairs from the main level.

There are multiple exits (including instructions on when to open the windows, and when to break them out) and an assembly plan with rally points.



The DVR is in a locked area, and is on the list to move into an even more secure area. We have back-up power, and battery back-ups to that for the DVR, surveillance, and security systems. Good points, thanks.

I could use a security / cable / TV / wireless expert though. :D


Oh, is that how it is going to be?

Next time, my wife's pot-bellied beagle gets first dibs at your chow.

TR

Kind of a wierd back up plan - where do you keep him and what do you feed him? :D

not to belabor the obvious, but I recall growing up seeing the upclass houses having cameras. Everyone in the neighborhood saw those cameras as sign of wealth.

I like the idea of deterrence of another plain jane structure with obvious wealthy-showing, bourgeois-lifestyle neighbors in close proximity ;)

This has been a VERY informative thread and I thank you all for contributing your methods. My wife and I have recently moved into an apartment complex and the area appears to be okay, but I would like to take a few measures to better secure our unit.

Thinking sensors on the doors and windows, a motion sensor inside and the capability to connect those devices to my cell phone, would be a good start.

Are there any recommendations on products and/or where to buy home security products?

Also, if anyone knows of a reliable home security company in the San Antonio area, it would be much appreciated.

Milon

"Also, if anyone knows of a reliable home security company in the San Antonio area, it would be much appreciated."

I had a pretty cool ADT installer. Hooked me up some different kinds of sensors, etc. 1-week alarm battery backup, and the alarm is monitored via wireless. Ask them to come up with some creative applications.

When I taught perimeter security systems at Ft. Huachuca, many moons ago, we had IR, seismic, pressure, acoustic, motion, and buried magnetic detectors. We found that the magnetic detectors were 99.99% percent effective at detecting humans, the other detectors were often set off by wild animals. Only humans, and some domestic animals (shod horses and collared dogs), carry metal that set off the magnetic detectors. This would be my first choice, here, but I can't find a reasonably priced system.

Being 100% off-grid we can't use security lights (I don't like them anyway because they limit my view to the edge of the light pool).

Close in, I'm counting on the avatar dog, but Akita's don't bark unless they want something so I'm not sure how effective he'd be. He does "woof" when someone drives onto the property, but I'm not sure that it would wake me. (My wife says an artillery barrage wouldn't wake me. She's probably right, her snoring doesn't. :D)

One thing I've learned from the long-time locals is that locking a gate invites intruders as they think that you will be gone for a long time. We were gone 2 weeks over Thanksgiving and didn't lock the gate...or the front door. No problem.

Pat

Super Circuits is sort of the Wall Mart of video security systems. Their stuff is OK, for higher end cameras look at Watec for the camera and Computar for the lenses.

Watec has some new cameras, like the 910HX, that in my experience see better in low light than most green tubes.

QP TR et. al., thanks for posts, this is a very informative thread!

Some random thoughts:

Gadspot has some good cameras as well, especially their SmartIR series(the IR intensity dynamically adjusts as objects/people approach in order to prevent the bloom effect). I have some Vonnic cameras which are pretty solid as well, Sony ExView chipsets with an Effio DSP. DVR is custom built, Foxconn net-top running Linux/Zoneminder with USB capture devices in a secure location. I would generally avoid wireless if possible as it is easy to both jam and intercept, i.e. a simple deauth attach against A/B/G/N can render your cameras useless for the duration of the attack, if the intruders were so technically inclined.

As for alarm motion sensors, look for ones that use both PIR and radar(bear in mind that if you use wireless in the 5 GHz(802.11a) range, these could interfere). PIR alone can be defeated by changing the ambient room temperature(warm water under the door) etc. As for power, mine is trenched, and the phone line runs into the attic, making it difficult to cut.

I am set back from the street(4 houses built on a split lot - what used to be a single lot - with a driveway in the middle), with my garage sitting before the house, dusk to dawn PIR with 100watt floods have full coverage of that approach. Around the perimeter, I have solar powered LED floods combined with standard PIR dusk to dawn PIR units.

Considering wiring the sprinkler system to a motion sensing unit for deterrence(it is already controlled by an embedded system - NetDuino).

I am considering security film for my sliding and front door(has those fake stained glass panels :mad:). Does anyone have experience with this?

My .02

Security Film
 

We had security film installed on a few of the locations we work with. Key to the security film working is understanding what it can and cannot do.

A true secure installation requires the replacement of the frame and the walls around the new window. Looks kind of silly that the window is mostly intact, laying on the ground, while there are huge holes from a sledge hammer and pry bar where the window frame used to be.

You also have to check local regulations, as some places prohibit their use in the name of fire safety. NYC has a very extensive building fire safety code.

On top of all this is the cost. The cost of installation will be several times the value of the home contents. You also have to use installers certified by the manufacturer.

We also discovered that one residence insurance policy included changes to the policy, in effect stating that if the enhanced measures failed, the carrier would not cover the loss. They also questioned the ability of fire rescue personnel to enter the domicile, if this window film was installed. This, in turn, led to a very robust fire detection, suppression and alarm system.

For the average home owner, the costs and limitations may far outweigh the perceived benefit.

May as well buy an old savings bank building or National Guard Armory.

I agree, it is very pricey and has some secondary effects that people may not want.

The only places I have ever seen it used is on windows of US Government buildings. I have never seen a residential application, but I suppose if you had the money, it could be done.

Personally, I wonder if a specific type of window tint or an automotive clear bra material would work to some lesser degree.

TR

"Kind of a wierd back up plan - where do you keep him and what do you feed him?" Pedoncdoc

He tends to keep to himself and is partial to Jack Tacos and pastrami sandwiches from 'The Hat'. Pure health food.

Thanks for the informative response. I am primarily looking at the cheaper commercial/residential films, like this. The purpose would be to buy time on what I see are the paths of least resistance: the windows in my front door(the door itself is another story) and my sliding doors.

If not the window itself, a screen/storm window is an easy place for additional security.

"Back on the farm", I had the external screw-on storm windows in heavy frames. To assist in preventing the entry of flying objects, ( and roaming shitheads) I included hardware cloth on the inside surface. Screws that require an uncommon screwdriver tip are available and cheap.

Modern, thin-framed screen windows can generally be removed with a pry-bar or screwdriver from outside. However if pinned from the inside along both left and right, and incorporating some good-looking black vinyl-coated hardware cloth as well as the black screen, they are a serious impediment unless someone comes equipped with bolt cutters.

And HH6 likes the fact that they look "distinctive". :)

Could not find this info in a search so I have two questions that relate to this thread. I am trying to secure 4 remote cabins with cameras and alarms. Only one has power and none currently have phone lines. I purchased a trail cam and so far am impressed with it... Mostly. It puts out a red beam indicating its zone of coverage, this is no good as I am interested primarily in human activity and that gives camera location away at night and in low light conditions, any available that don't do that? Also curious about other ways to monitor and control any devices. Looking for near and long term solutions?

Not sure if the house has two or more floors. If so would consider some type of rope ladder, just in case you needed to get out from upstairs. The only other thing I can think of is a Joya Dr Nicaragua, and enjoy what you've accomplished.

4 cameras took about one minute.

http://www.fieldandstream.com/articl...-spooking-game

Thank you sir, it was if you said " Inbound", if you only knew the half of it. Open invite any time. I see there are many options out there, the title of the article has given me an idea. I think I will use the camera I purchased for bait. W/others in over watch for starters. The nice thing about X-Traing is it teaches you to dig deep and broad...thank you.

Thanks all for the pro tips. The one thing I have found that helps is having a dog that is trained to only bark when someone enters the property. That way I always know that when I hear her bark there's someone inbound. Too many dogs just bark and carry on just because someone is walking down the street. Another thing I do is to train my dog to only eat what I put in front of her, high probability of not being baited that way.

Are these IR visible? If not which brand?