Ultrasonic Cleaning
 

I recently purchased an ultrasonic cleaner.

It seems to be particularly effective at cleaning difficult pieces like slides, bolts, suppressors, etc. I have run a couple of pistols, some parts, cans, etc., and it worked well.

Does anyone else use an ultrasonic cleaner, and if so, do you have any tips?

I am particularly interested in what cleaning solutions you might recommend for firearms.

Thanks in advance.

TR

I have three of them. They work very well. One for small parts, two for pistol (one also heats).

Brownell offers cleaners and lubes.

I have taken a cleaned pistol, used a heated US cleaner and watched the black clouds come out of the pistol.

I will blow dry it and it is so clean the action will almost not work.

I use a ultrasonic lube and it does a wonderful job. The action will be very smooth (was smooth originally).

I also use them for other items.

sounds like I need to get one to make life easier.... get off the range, break everything down and toss it in the "washing machine" vs the tedious norm...

DO you have any links to the make and models? Always looking for a good tool for work.

Branson ultrasonic cleaner
 

I have a Branson 2210 that I use to clean my AAC Scarab suppressor. My Director of Maintenance would buy Carbon-X by the 50 gallon drum and it seems to work great on sealed units such as the Scarab. Branson issues a warning not to use flammable solutions in the tank. I'm assuming that's because the heating element could ignite the solution.

Some of them are very pricey, especially as they get larger, but I was able to get a good deal on a Branson B300 Tabletop Ultrasonic Cleaner, which has an unusually long tank, primarily for the cans.

According to the guy I bought it from, water with some Simple Green and a few drops of dishwashing detergent are adequate for firearms cleaning.

During the course of cleaning, I dropped in two handguns, two suppressors, and several AR-15 bolts, all which were as clean as I could get them manually. As stated, each started off with a black cloud of crud coming off. By the end, the bottom of the tank was covered with it and the water was black as well. The parts come out very clean and devoid of all lube or oil, and must be dried and lubed.

I blew them dry with compressed air, wiped them down, and sprayed them thoroughly with a good penetrating oil, letting them sit before reassembling, wiping them off, and lubing them normally.

15 minutes run time seems to be suffiicent in the small tank I have.

TR

SF_BHT, this is the link for the brownells set up.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...LEANING+SYSTEM

Also this company has cleaners with heaters.

http://www.nationaljewelerssupplies....GY/ultrasonics

You can also check with your local Jewelry Supply store.

H.

Harbor Freight carrys some pretty cheap ones, they appear to be big enough for handguns only and no idea on the quality. This is the biggest one they have. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91957

When you get to about 12" inside tank length they seem to run about $400, like this one http://www.sonicsonline.com/personal...-cleaning.html

The ones I saw designed for long guns were very expensive.
http://www.sonicsonline.com/f636ht.html

TR, I think that I told you about using clean H2O in the Tank and then whatever cleaing compound in a good quality Freezer Ziplock and you won't be trashing a large quantity of cleaning solution plus, you can go from cleaning Jewelery to Guns or do them at the same time. For Long Stuff, do you have a Food Saver, just get the rolls of bag stock and make them as long as you need them!!

We do this for cleaning Aircraft Oil Filters and Fuel Injectors without having to have multiple dedicated Tanks!!

Take care.
Martin

Thanks all your post helps. Now I need only to figure out which one is best for the Office (MY SHop).

If you can afford it, one that will take the length of a pistol and maybe be the depth. Even actions of rifles can be hand dipped into the solution. I have a small one, that I don't use much because of it's limitations in size. It is a great one for Jewelry and small parts.

BTW if you are married, the wife will like the jewelry cleaning aspect.


Martin,

Thank you for excellent suggestion, I have done that when cooking in the field. Moutaineering, I can make water and cook in the same pot. Never thought of it in the shop. One reason I bought two bigger units was for cleaning in one, lubrication in the other.

Looking at one that will do exactly that. Retired and Uncle Sugar is buying this one.

My favorite one has a heater and a drain value. Makes it much easier to change fluids. A heater is great, Reaction time goes up something like 10x for every degree C. (trying to remember the chemistry I took).

I also use spray bottles of water to rinse the part off. Also use those bottles for my plating process.

Longer is better. Deeper not so much better, just deep enough to cover the part. Solution need to be about 1" below the top of the tank. Plus the part held about a inch from the bottom. A 8" deep tank is effectively good for a part less than 6 inches high.

They cut the "deep" (lack of a better term) cleaning time down greatly. The great aspect is the lubrication. Not so good for black powder, but most excellent for situations that are dry and dusty. The lube will not hold much of the dust/grit.

H.

A few words of caution/warning/wisdom about Ultra Sonic Cleaners (USC). Be sure, if you use my aforementioned bag method that the chemicals that you place in the bag do not attack the bag, especially at the elevated temps that USC’s can generate.

These devices do NOT have to be heated to generate heat. The excitation of the various molecules in the solutions can produce quite a bit of heat just from the friction that is induced through the rapid movement . You can also add alcohol to any aqueous solutions to cause more elevation of temperature as long as alcohol is compatible with the solution. The very mixing of alcohol and H2O generates heat by the molecular interaction/friction. Also, otherwise benign solutions, at room temp, can reach their “Flash Point” when heated.

Due to all of the molecular interactivity that goes on in a USC, Electro-Static Discharge can occur, and if you have a solution that is at or above it’s Flash Point, it will be Poof-Soot before you know it!!!

Be safe.
Martin

If someone has the time, the ultrasonic cleaners can be found at various university and state surpluses for little to nothing. My small one was $10, it is only big enough to clean handguns.

As far as using it to clean jewelry, be careful, some stones will break in the cleaner.

My new Toy is on the way. :munchin Thank god for a Gov CC.
Have a vault of dirty guns to test it on. The jungle plays havoc on them.

I hope my Girls Diamonds will not break or I will have to kill a jeweler. Emerald's are another situation.:D

Never used one of these, so I have a question out of curiosity. If one were to put a collectors grade firearm (no scratches, for example) into the steel mesh basket. Does the ultrasonic cause any vibrations which would result in scratching the metal finish of the firearm?

Pardon the question, but why would an unfired or collectors weapon need deep cleaning?

Nothing should rest on the bottom of the tank. Items in the basket that concern you can always be suspended by wires to hang freely.

As AM noted, you can also put items in bags of solution and put them in the basket. If there is only one item, there should be no metal to metal contact.

HTH.

TR

I wonder if one of these would work to prep a Weapon for painting. Or a protective coating of some sort.........

I would suspect that if you sprayed it down well with acetone, or carb cleaner, before putting it into the cleaner with the proper solution, and then dry it thoroughly, it would be well-prepped for painting.

TR

I have used them when I am plating metal, seems to help. Depending on type of paint finish I used a reqular prep/degreaser.

I have used it to clean internal small parts prior to bluing then used a degreaser/prep.

Rogue, I never noticed any marks, I believe the vibration does not shake the parts but virbrates the solution. I have place bright blue parts in, synthetic frames, etc and never seen any marks.

Thanks for the input. To answer the question. I have picked up a few collectors grade unfired weapons in the past, and you wouldn't believe how some people store them. (Just because they own them, doesn't mean they have ever used a firearm, or even know how to clean one) Had one that was full of dirt and dust, and who knows what else. Whatever was in there attracted moisture and caused mild interior rust.

Any black powder or older weapon which might have had corrosive ammo fired in it needs to be disassembled and detail cleaned as soon as possible after you get your hands on it. The powder residue is hygroscopic and the corrosive salts are well, corrosive.

Unfired weapons are not always unfired.:D Many are test fired before shipping, and may, or may not have been cleaned after that, even if the original purchaser did not fire it himself.

Most weapons leave the factory with at least a light coat of oil, but with time, many things are possible. Dust is probably hygroscopic as well, especially if the weapon was stored in a hot, humid climate.

The good news is that you can put lube in the ultrasonic tank after cleaning, and it will get oil deep into every part of the weapon.

TR

Thanks TR, and BTW Happy belated birthday. 50 isn't so bad..... Just the start of the second half of your life, or second lifetime, whatever the case may be.

Thanks. Second childhood, more likely.

TR

Barnes makes a really great copper remover, old military rifles that I have picked up never really had all the copper fouling removed. Over the years, I have heard of a number of stories where a family's front stuffer is passed down from generation to generation, Kids played with it, etc, then to horror of everyone it is checked and found to still be holding a charge.

BTW Happy B-day. It is great to be a kid again.
H.

Safe as can be, long as there is no cap on it or priming charge in the pan.:D

Thanks.

TR

For what it's worth, after doing a little more research, came upon two DO NOTS for Ultrasonic Cleaning. First of all it was suggested not to use Simply Green on any aluminum parts or frames, and secondly it was stated that the ultrasonic cleaner can cause issues with Tritium sights and sight Dots.

Anyone have any comments on these issues.

R