Reloading
 

I was wondering if the admins could break out the reloading part into a new thread. This is info that others may like to have but do not know it is hidden in a scope thread.

Just wondering. :)

Some tips on reloading high pressure rifle cartridges:

It's almost impossible to double-charge a rifle cartridge if you're using the correct propellent, so your greatest danger is case-head seperation. Case-head seperation at 50,000+ copper units of pressure can be akin to having a pipe-bomb explode next to your face. You might get lucky and avoid the big, fast pieces, and you might not. To avoid the situation altogether...

Start out with new brass, or brass that you KNOW to be "Once-fired". The first time you reload for a particular rifle, do a full-case resize. After you've fired these in a particular rifle, and only if you intend to fire them from the same rifle again, only resize the neck. This avoids stressing the area just in front of the case-head. ALWAYS inspect your cases for cracks or leaks around the primer pocket, and for cracks or a bright band just forward of the case-head. Depending on how hot you load, find a happy number at which to dispose of your brass. I use 3 for maximum loads, and 5 for anything less. After that, throw the brass away. It's not worth spending an hour extracting the case remnants or blowing up your rifle and your face to save a couple bucks. A case-head sep in an auto-loader is usually no big deal..( http://www.tacticalsupplies.us/media...seperation.mpg )... .it can be a little more messy with a bolt-gun.

I got my reloading kit today. It's an RCBS Kit. I've got two friends that said they would walk me through the process. Both have all fingers attached.

Thanks for all of the golden pearls of guidance.

Doc

Well let me open this one up again.
 

I do a bunch of loading..I thought. I like loading the personal one a a time and get a lot of relaxation from it. I use mostly Lee products, with different brands mof ancillary equipment. I was working some ambitious rounds. One is a 240gr 30-06 to go 1600 meters transsonic. to make this a short story I did finaly get the velociety to reach that level but the rounds grouped poorly. I returned the the best grouping (.37moa) @ 100. and transsonic just beyond 1300 meters. It also has much reduced recoil for a 30-06. I do not know why this round is soooo good.
I am now looking for some reload suggestions for IMR 4831 powder with this same weight bullet. It may end up a failure but I wanted to try. I doubt I'll do any better with the 30-06 than my1300 meter recipe.
I do load 200gr in my 8mm Mauser (Shilen barrel, Timney trigger, reworked bolt,etc. and 175s in 308. All are Sierra HPBTs.
My primary powder for these rounds is IMR 4064 and am very satisfied with it.
I had read on the IMR 4831 as being a good heavy bullet powder, but could not find any heavey 30-06 recipes. any help would be welcome. Blitzzz

One of the benefits of a single stage press is the inspection process is easier.

I used two loading trays. I would fill on tray with case and set it to the right side of the press and the empty tray to the left side of the press.

After sizing and priming, I would place the case in the left tray upside down. Upon completion I would take the left tray and inspect the primers setting depth.

Next, I would place the tray with upside down cases in it, to the right of the powder flask and the empty one to the left.

upon charging the case it would go into the empty tray (obviously right side up). Using one tray can cause over charging or cases being missed.

When that process is finished, I would take the tray and inspect the powder levels in all the cases.


Final (if seating and crimping is done at the same time)

Tray with cases to the right of the press, I would seat bullet and or crimp and place it into the left tray.


Starting with the tray on the right or left does not effect this method, where you start is personal preference.


Side note, 4064 has always been a favorite powder of mine.

New powders...?
 

Alliant has a new form of powders. They are called the "power Pro". they are:
300-MP (Smokeless Spherical Magnum Pistol Powder)
2000-MP (Smokeless Spherical Medium Rifle powder)
4000_MP (Smokeless Spherical Medium Rifle powder)
varmint (Smokeless special Light Rifle powder)
3000-LR (Smokeless special Large Rifle powder)
Just curious, has anyone had the chance to use any yet
They advertise "boost velocities,while permiting more efficient metering and loading ans with greater consistancy. Dave

I should be getting the rest of my reloading stuff in the next month or so. I've never reloaded before, always bought ammo from the store when it was cheaper. I already have 1lb of Alliant Unique powder, and 2000 Winchester large pistol primers. What I have left to purchase is a lee hand press, carbide dies, improved dipper kit, lee auto primer with shell holders, and some cast lead bullets. Found some good reloading manuals already. I don't do IDPA or anything like that, so I figure the hand press will suit me fine.

Lee Hand press..?
 

I use Unique for all my pistol and shotgun loading and am very pleased with as a one for all powder. I'm close to settling for a one powder for my rifle cartridges it's pretty much IMR 4064 but I am looking at the new Alliant pro powders. As to the lee Hand loader it's a nice piece but very slow way to go. You might think of a lee turrent. They are inexpensive and much faster the the hand loader. But it's all up to the time you with to spend loading. I like my loading time, it's relaxing. If i may ask what are you loading with cast bullets. revolver fine, semi not so fine.
You may want to get some Lee ALOX to coat the lead bullets. decreases lead clean up.

I'll try your suggestion of IMR 4064 once I start reloading 5.56. I just sold my heavy barrel bolt action so no .308 until finances clear up. Times have been tight.

I figured I'd get the hand loader for the price and size. Midwayusa.com charges 36.99 for the kit, which isn't so bad and I could probably fit it all in a .50 cal ammo can. I'll take a look at the lee turrets too. I'll be reloading .45 ACP and no more than 500 rds a month, so I could split it up on the weekends and relax. I definitely want to take my time and learn too, don't want anything bad happening.

The bullets I plan on using came from advice from an AD Marine that shoots IDPA pretty frequently when he's in the states. The price seems decent, and they are apparently coated with lube already. He shoots the 200grn SWC and doesn't have any problems in his Les Baer TRS 1911 (I have the same pistol). You can look at them here: http://www.precisionbullets.com/ . Is there anything I should be worried about regarding these in my 1911?

And thank you for your advice. Definitely helping me out!

Check other powders...
 

IMR 4064 is a great powder for heaver calibers but not so for the 5.56. 5.56 may require a faster powder.IMR 3031 or RL 15 . Slow loading is a pleasure if you don't need a lot of ammo quickly. Loading can become an art form.. Enjoy it. Dave

SFO - Free advice, worth what you're paying for it. Your "minimalist" approach to equipment (no scale) will benefit from using ball powders. Learn with WW748 (rifle) and WW231 (pistol) powders. They are readilly available, relatively forgiving, meter well, and work well in a wide variety of cartridges. Good luck.

Blitzzz, Peregrino, thanks. :)

Buy a Scale...
 

A bar scale is all you need Lyman, Lee, RCBS, Hornady, etc. The ball or fine flake powders will allow you to load pretty consistantlly by volume but scale insures it by weight. Important purchase. Dave

Not sure if I would want the minimalist form of reloading especially when I reload for multiple calibers and build loads.

I consider a scale to be a important piece of equipment in this situation. If it was one caliber and one size bullet, one powder, then ok.

If a person reloads enough, especially rifle,, then a case trimmer becomes a necessity.

If a person builds up loads a Chronograph is another necessity.

As a person gets more into reloading and starts to move to bench rest shooting other tools become necessary.


The other aspect of reloading is powder choices, there are a lot of powders on the marker. I am slowly moving away from specific powder for specific calibers, to more general powders. This way I can reduce the number of different powders that I have in stock. Most of my shooting now only requires hunting and plinking accuracy. A scale allows a easy move using different powders for that one caliber.

Also bullet choices becomes another reason, a easier move to different bullets by weight.

I would recommend a good book for the beginner, pet loads, by Ken Waters. Great book for finding that load for a specific caliber.

SFO:

A Lee hand press with Lee dies and the Lee dipper kit?

My advise with the dipper is to use ball powders. The dippers don't go well with extruded or flake powders at all. Lee will give you a load chart with your dipper kit. It is for minimum loads so have a wooden dowel ready to hammer the bullets out of your pistol barrel when you get one stuck.

I say this from experience some thirty years ago when I started out with a Lee dipper kit. Three bullets stuck in the barrel of a S&W model 27 that were removed by the guys at Cumberland Knife and Gun on Bragg Blvd.

I got a scale, a real reloading press, a powder measure, powder scale, and some real reloading dies within seconds of those bullets getting pulled from that barrel. Never have had one stuck since.

In other words -- you are heading towards problems that guys here are advising you to consider.

Gene