View Full Version : Remington R1 1911
Hey to all, just purchased another .45, like I really needed one. Any way took it out fired a few rounds out of it. No issues, standard .45 until I go to clean it. Seems that the barrel bushing is so tight that you have to use a "tool" to remove it. Call me crazy, but I just do not like the idea, that I need a tool to break down this pistol. Has any one else purchased one, experienced this and did the bushing loosen up after use? thanks,
Well, one should expect some issues with antique weapons.....
PRB, not sure if your are joking or not. this is a NEW pistol... and yes I know how to take one a part... Lol
Well, one should expect some issues with antique weapons.....
Well, it is new if you factor in your age....
OTOH never known one to need a tool....if parkerized it could be a thick coat binding...i'd oil it and work it a bit...if it really bugs you put it in the freezer to 'shrink' the steel for it's first take down.
OTOH never known one to need a tool....if parkerized it could be a thick coat binding...i'd oil it and work it a bit...if it really bugs you put it in the freezer to 'shrink' the steel for it's first take down.
This is what I'm guessing..
How did it shoot??
At one time you purchased all parts for the 1911 oversized to buff and smooth for a tight fit, including the barrel bushing.
In the case of an "issue" 1911 sloppy was the norm. :munchin
I have an R1 threaded. It took some time to loosen up. I would much rather tight tolerances from factory rather than loose. I use mine as a suppressor host but have also done many three gun competions with it. Eventually I switched to a Wilson Bullet Proof bushings that also required some hand fitting, but I do feel it tightened the barrel up even more consistently than factory. The NM triggers and Sears also clean them up. I dumped the factory mags for McCormick or Wilson 10 rounders. Ymmv.
There is more than one way to take them apart...however having a nice non marring bushing wrench is a keeper either way.
I think they are okay 1911s. Over six years or so on mine now. They are stupid heavy. Make a nice blunt weapon if needed!
I suspect that you would complain that a virgin was too tight.:)
It is in the nature of the 1911A1 that there is an inherent conflict between the maximum external dimension of the barrel and the interior diameter of the bushing.
The barrel must have enough "slack" to pivot (lower) until it unlocks from the slide, while returning up to alignment when the pistol is "in battery."
When you are dealing with solid steel against solid steel ... well ... there is going to have to be give and take.
In my opinion the problem was neatly solved with the Gold Cup National Match version:
1 - The bushing was split, and instead of a solid cylinder of metal to hold the barrel in position a set of four "fingers'" each under strong tension formed the center line, and
2 - The barrel was machined with the smallest amount of bulge at the near tip, corresponding with the center point of the "fingers."
RESULT: There is enough flex in the bushing to allow the barrel to pivot down, have the fired casing pulled to the rear by the extractor and ejected by the ejector, while having enough force to compel the barrel to return to a single battery as it returns forward for the next shot.
You can always leave as much slack in the barrel to bushing fitting as you and your gunsmith desire. You can leave it so slack that you can reach around with your finger and wiggle the barrel left/right/up/down (making an audible "click - click") within the bushing.
Of course, that also means that the barrel will find it's own home after each shot. That "home" may or may not be in any sort of alignment with what the sights are indicating as the direction of flight.
Bottom line:
If you want a solid bushing, polish it (and the outside of your barrel), to your best compromise of smooth functioning (including disassembly) and accurate alignment when fired at the second shot, or...
go to a split bushing, with or without a barrel machined to match.
(By the way, when beginning the disassembly of a split bushing with a "fat at the tip" barrel, it is still a good idea to partially pull the slide to the rear, so the fingers are no longer fighting the thickest portion of the barrel).
tom kelly
08-30-2019, 15:29
Hey to all, just purchased another .45, like I really needed one. Any way took it out fired a few rounds out of it. No issues, standard .45 until I go to clean it. Seems that the barrel bushing is so tight that you have to use a "tool" to remove it. Call me crazy, but I just do not like the idea, that I need a tool to break down this pistol. Has any one else purchased one, experienced this and did the bushing loosen up after use? thanks,
YES, Have 2 Les Baer pistols and not only the dissemble needs a barrel bushing wrench to re-assemble the pistol you need a thin blade to depress the slide stop plunger while pushing the slide stop rearward up & in until the slide stop is fully home. The extreme close (very tight) tolerance is according to Les Baer required for accuracies to shoot 3 inch groups at 50 yards. The pistol has been field stripped numerous times for cleaning and it is as tight now as it was in Aug.2007. NOTE: I have never shot a 3 inch group at 50 yards. Les Baer claims some can shoot 2 & 1/2 inch OR BETTER groups ?
Peregrino
08-30-2019, 16:00
Ohhhh! CSM-H - Stop complaining about something you should be grateful for. CSB has 2/3rds of the answer (virgin too tight (:p) and barrel/bushing fit - though I'm not really a fan of the Series 70 bushings); PRB and JJ_BPK most likely have the rest (requires some "break-in" to assemble/disassemble easily). I've got several quality 1911's and variants and all require a bushing wrench. Most actually came with one from the manufacturer. Do like I've done, get one of the inexpensive plastic ones, throw it in your cleaning kit, use it when required. That and thank whichever smith built your R1 because it'll probably shoot a little better than the arms room Remington Rand you (we!) grew up with.
For the lurkers - Barrel/bushing fit is 1/2 of tuning the front end of a 1911 (lugs, hood and link are the back end), bushing/slide is the other half. A tight fit on the latter goes a long way towards preserving the former and both contribute their share to accuracy. Tom Kelly's description of his Les Baer is what pistol smiths strive for in a "top tier" pistol (not enough "slop" in my mind for a military sidearm that might not see scrupulous maintenance). The bushing wrench is to compensate for a tight bushing/slide fit. It also depresses the recoil spring plug to unlock the bushing so it'll turn. I use one even when not required because I'm lazy and it makes assembly/disassembly easier.
Well I asked the question, complain if you will.... I was just caught by needing a tool to take apart a .45. I have a Para Ordinance, Kimber and Springfield. The Remington is very tight, but so are the Para and Kimber, Springfield a little less.... But none of the other three needed a tool...
Thanks for all the responses, and by the way, I would never complain about a too tight virgin.... I would just work with it... Which I probably should of said in the first place... thanks for the responses, CSM-H
Well I would never complain about a too tight virgin....
I would just work with it...
CSM-H
U funny, GI :D:D:D
Old Dog New Trick
09-03-2019, 13:29
CSM-H, you should drop in a full length two piece guide rod just so you can add an Allen wrench to your new range bag of tools. :p
Just saying...:D
Having seen to many 1911 style pistols break in class I have to agree.
https://www.gunsamerica.com/digest/marine-special-operators-goodbye-1911-45-acp-hello-glock-19-9mm/