First Knife, no power tools to be used. - Page 2

Barbarian · 05-16-2011, 21:05

Wow. You've been hard at it, huh? Looks good. I'm excited to see how it turns out.

**Bill Harsey** · 05-19-2011, 07:41

Cake,
Something to consider prior to heat treat, What's your edge thickness?

Good job with hand tools for first go around.

Cake_14N · 05-19-2011, 07:57

Mr. Harsey,

I need to get a caliper. Edge is probably pretty thick.

I noticed that the edge appeared to "roll over onto itself" for lack of a better description. It looked like a thin strip of metal on the edge, that was very flimsy, would gather while I was filing the shape of the blade. I do have a couple of different types of files, one more aggressive than the other. I assume I need to swap over to the less aggressive file and refine the shape of the blade.

I am planning to make the blade jig from Mr. Goddards book to help me shape the profile of the blade.

I will try to take a picture of the edge of the blade and get it posted..

**Bill Harsey** · 05-19-2011, 08:02

Cake,
We don't want the edge too thin prior to heat treat but in your case once it's heat treated it might take more time to file thinner.

Even a relatively inexpensive Dial Caliper will get a good edge thickness measurement.

Be aware that any ok micrometer has carbide tipped surfaces on the anvil and spindle. This will always scratch a blade where measured, even if just a little bit.

Edited to add:
Dial Calipers don't work very well (ever again) after they free fall to the concrete. This is not theory.

Edited again to add:
With the CPM steels any edge thickness under about .025 (thousands of an inch) is in the risk zone.
What we are risking is warp or bend in the edge that cannot be corrected.

All heat treating here is by me with the exception of the Spartan blades I grind.
The Spartans are sent out to a pretty state of the art heat treat facility that has great control over the process with very good results.

I just measured a couple CPM S-30 VN blades recently heat treated here.
Edge thickness was down at .017 (thousandths of an inch) and they came out straight, luckily. This is risky shop practice.

The "N" in this alloy stands for Niobium.

Cake_14N · 05-23-2011, 10:01

Time to sand and sand and sand before I send out for heat treatment.

It is amazing what you notice when you start to sand. I did not realize just how many little gouges in the blade surface were there from the file.

I have spent about 2 or 3 hours sanding and still can see I need more work.

As for blade thickness...I need a much better caliper. Going to check out what is available at some of the knifemaking supply houses. The small one I got at Home Depot just is not goog enough to measure the edge of a blade.

Dusty · 05-23-2011, 10:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cake_14N

Time to sand and sand and sand before I send out for heat treatment.

It is amazing what you notice when you start to sand. I did not realize just how many little gouges in the blade surface were there from the file.

I have spent about 2 or 3 hours sanding and still can see I need more work.

As for blade thickness...I need a much better caliper. Going to check out what is available at some of the knifemaking supply houses. The small one I got at Home Depot just is not goog enough to measure the edge of a blade.

Send pics, Bro...

**Bill Harsey** · 05-23-2011, 21:31

Cake,
For about any tool need you may have, http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm

Same goes for anyone else doing stuff with hand tools, machine tools etc.
I've been doing business with them for many years. You can also order the catalog, your delivery person will bring it in on a hand truck.

If they don't have it, you probably don't need it.

Cake_14N · 05-26-2011, 15:45

I have tomorrow off so I will be able to devote some time to working on the blade. I will post pictures of the progress and let you guys know how the sanding is progressing.

I have become much more aware of tiny scratches in the surface of the blade from the file as it take a very long time to sand them away.

Cake

Cake_14N · 05-27-2011, 15:00

Here is where I stand after about 2.5 hours of sanding. I did switch to 120 grit...

Blade is not perfect. I can see that it is not shaped symmetrically and it is most likely a bit thick. But practice makes perfect and I need a lot more practice!!!

Looking at the closeup, I can see that I need to sand in a straight line...

**Bill Harsey** · 05-27-2011, 20:58

Cake,
Looking good!

Don't work so hard, perfection has little to do with making a good knife at this point. Get it heat treated and see what it does.

SpikedBuck · 05-28-2011, 14:06

Bill,

Are you working on anything new? I think I have one of your folders...had it with me now for the past year in the sand box...works great. Gets handled alot by folks

"Blackfoot"...is that one of yours...got the Lone Wolf Knives logo??

Dan

Kit Carson · 05-28-2011, 21:42

Sorry I missed this one up to this point..

One suggestion for checking edge thickness is a piece of sheet metal or thin steel with a band saw or hack saw cut into the edge about 1/4". Depending on the saw blade thickness, it should be .025 - .030. When the edge fits in the slot, it's a good thickness to stop at before heat treating.

Tell you what, Cake....when you get ready for knife #2, drop me a line and I'll send you the materials...steel, handle material, handle bolts, and the drill bit needed for them.

Just let me know. Of course, by the time you finish this one, you may not want to try another....

CRUSADERSTEEL · 05-30-2011, 02:46

Cake,

For first knife, man that looks good. For first knife AND youre doing it all by hand.... it looks awesome! Cant wait to see it complete. Keep up the good work and send me some of your patience!

Cake_14N · 06-03-2011, 12:33

Thanks to all who continue to send words of encouragement. It sure helps when I am sitting out on the back porch sanding and sanding.

I am just about ready to send the blade off for heat treat. Like Mr. Harsey said, perfection is not necessary. Just a little more sanding and I will send her off.

Cake_14N · 06-14-2011, 10:16

OK,

That CPM154 blade is ready to send off for heat treat. It should go out the door this week.

I have been working on another blade or two from a different metal ( 1095), one I can heat myself.

I made the firebrick oven from Mr. Goddards book and was able to heat a blade until it was glowing red and not attracted to a magnet. I did a simple water quench so I hope it works. I put it in the toaster oven at 450 degrees for an hour last night and will do that at least 2 more times before I start finishing and adding the handle material.

I will do my best to get pictures posted.

I have determined that I need to work a bit more on the symmetry of my blades. One side is just a bit off from the other in terms of depth of filing and removal of metal. Not off too much, but I can tell the difference.