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Old 02-07-2004, 18:13   #1
Valhal
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Army Issued boots

1. Is there a tried and true process for softening and preparing newly issued boots for long ruck marches? ( I have seen TR's post in the pipeline section, I'm looking for specifics if possible.)

2. What is the mileage life of your average boot?

Any tricks of the trade would be appreciated. I am getting two sets next week and I want to start breaking them in the right way.
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Old 02-07-2004, 18:28   #2
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I did not write this, but the man that did knows what he is talking about, it has worked for me

Depending on the type of boot you get, you may or may not need to shape them to your feet to accelerate or facilitate the "break-in" process. There are a million methods of accomplishing this. Some folks wear their boots in the shower, and then walk around with them wet until they dry on their feet. Some folks just wear their boots for a month until they are broken in the hard way.

I used to literally soak my boots in a BUCKET of Neet's Foot Oil, which can be a very expensive proposition if you go to the store and see how much an entire bucket's worth will cost you. The thing is, Neet's Foot Oil breaks down the leather, whether you are using old-style authentic green jungle boots, newer-style black jungle boots, full-leather standard Army-issue boots, or whatever. I have no idea what kind of boots are issued these days, or permitted. But Neet's Foot Oil can make your boots softer than slippers, meaning the uppers will be nice and soft, and waterproof as HELL. When you are a grunt, and you live and die on your feet, no money is too much for the right shit, and Neet's Foot Oil IS the shit. No, I don't own stock or Neet's Foot Oil futures.

The Neet's Foot Oil treatment is only appropriate for boots worn in the field. It will ruin all chance for boots to look "normal" or pretty for garrison purposes, but for field boots, you will thank me every day you wear them in the bush if you prepare your field boots in this way. I used to soak my boots, completely immersing them, (at least just the leather part, or completely, if they were all leather boots), for about two weeks. No kidding. Periodically, I would pull the boots out, and rough up the outer surface with a steel brush, carefully. This was so the Neet's Foot Oil could soak in deeper into the leather, completely saturating it. When I came back from the bush, I would clean my boots, then reinsert them into a bucket, or just liberally coat them repeatedly with more layers, to maintain the water repellency and softness.

Boots prepared in this way are completely waterproof. They will leak Neet's Foot Oil onto your socks for awhile after you prepare them (this is ugly, but harmless), but they will last a long time, remain totally waterproof, and require very rare applications of black shoe polish, which means you can skip packing a can of polish and a rag in your ruck. Your boots will stay black, no matter what, and you will not have to polish them. Your boots will get softer than hell, and very comfortable, and you will like them more than tennis shoes. Your boots will be as waterproof or more so than a set of gore tex boots, but they will be a hell of a lot cheaper, even considering the cost of the Neet's Foot Oil (it might cost around $20-30 for enough to immerse your boots, with a bucket large enough to fit both boots in it).
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Old 02-08-2004, 13:08   #3
Sinister
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GI boots generally suck for field use.

Both Ranger and SF Courses mandate you must wear issue boots.

You can send them to a small shop outside Bragg on Yadkin Road to have them modified for more than the boots cost if you bought them out of Clothing Sales. Your boots remain issue, but lighter, more flexible, and more comfortable, and they don't rot.

Clark's Boot Service and Shoe Repair in Fayetteville can gut the boots (remove the cardboard toe and heel cups, remove the steel shank, and re-sole with Vibram soles, leg leather boots, jungle boots, or desert boots) for $85.00, not counting shipping or mailing back to you.

Clark's
6431-B Yadkin Road
Fayetteville, NC 28303
910 487 2008

Last edited by Sinister; 02-08-2004 at 13:12.
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Old 02-08-2004, 22:45   #4
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That was Magician, wasn't it?
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Old 02-09-2004, 12:16   #5
Valhal
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Is the modified boot legal in SFAS?

Also what is the tread life of an average combat boot?

Any tips on inserts?

Thanks to all.

Mark
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Old 02-09-2004, 12:32   #6
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The heel and toe cap removal and steel shank removal is okay for selection. Also from someone new to rucking(approx 1 year now) you will find having these items removed makes the boots fit more like a sneaker than a boot.

I have spoken with one individual multiple times about soles and the standard sole is the one to go with. It has been brought to my attention that the standard is not negotiable. While some may get by with having Vibram, ripple, etc soles you dont want to be the one who get shaken down by a cadre member who is very conservative when it come to what issue is and is not.

I just got a pair of boots back from Clark's Boot Repair. It was worth every penny to have the caps and shank removed. Next stop for them is Neet's Foot Oil. I have one other pair I soaked and they fit like a glove. Highly recommend both of these prior to wearing, if possible.

On the note of insoles; if you soak your boots in neets foot oil wear them for a few days with the standard insole before putting the expensive ones in. The oil will eat away at the new insoles and ruin them. That has been my experience anyhow.

HTH,

Crip
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Last edited by Surgicalcric; 02-09-2004 at 12:38.
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Old 02-09-2004, 12:49   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Roguish Lawyer
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Yes
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:16   #8
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Is it advisable to soak jungle boots in Neets foot oil. Will it damage the canvas portion?
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:50   #9
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Mine were soaked in Neets Foot Oil. I did not soak the uppers, only the leather. Be forewarned, once you soak them you WILL NOT be able to put a good shine on them. These will therefor only be good for use in the field. Before soaking them I would get some 250-320 grit sand paper and rough the outer leather. It has been my experience you will get a better result this way. Dont go overboard with the sanding though. You dont want the leather as rough as the desert brown boot.

Maybe one of the more experienced guys will give you some other ideas, but the above is what I did with my boots.

HTH
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Old 04-06-2004, 13:36   #10
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How much is the Neets Oil? What stores carry it?
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Old 04-06-2004, 13:47   #11
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Seems like I remember it being around $12.00/gallon and can be purchased at most any store TAC shop that sells horse riding equipment. Its used for saddles mostly.

I placed a trash bag in a fruit box placed my boots in the bag and filled it with oil until it was over the top of the heels. I poured the oil into the boot as well so it soaks in from both sides as well. My jungles are soft as slippers, well almost. It also dyes the leather thru-and-thru. No more covering up dings and gouges in the leather with polish or leather dye.

I dont know if I would try soaking the Belleville/Wellco boots though. I am not sure what effect it may have on the liners. You could try rubbing it into the outside leather though or soak them without pouring the oil into the boots.

HTH
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Old 04-06-2004, 16:19   #12
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http://www.chicksaddlery.com/Merchan...ct_Code=NO1284

$17.99 a gallon there, had a hard time finding it on the web until I changed it to Neatsfoot Oil.

They also carry it for $12.95 a gallon at Tractor Supply

http://www.mytscstore.com/default.asp

Last edited by ktek01; 04-06-2004 at 16:23.
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Old 04-06-2004, 17:21   #13
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Tractor's Supply is where I bought mine.
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Old 04-06-2004, 17:37   #14
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Keep the Gore-Tex, Insulated, Lined and anything other than basic leather out of the Neat's Foot Oil.

You can buy a small bottle, brush it on the outside of most boots and be okay, but do not overdo it and actually soak anything but plain leather or canvas boots. Add another coat if the leather still seems stiff or they start to absorb water.

All the Neat's Foot Oil does is soften the leather, make it more pliable and water proof.

While I take a new set of jungle/desert boots, prep the laces, soak them in water till they are saturated, saddle soap them, walk them dry, saddle soap them again, walk them some more, brush on Neat's Foot Oil, apply a heavy layer of polish, burn it on, then shine them again and start wearing them, some you you guys are way too literal and are seriously into overkill.

With the Bellevilles, Rockys, Danners, and other high end lined boots, I would abbreviate the process to saddle soaping them, walking them in, brushing a light coat of Neat's Foot Oil on the outside, walking them in some more, and brush shining them.

Just buy a bottle to start with, no need for a 5 gallon can yet.

TR
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Old 04-06-2004, 18:54   #15
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Of course the single most important thing to do is make sure the boots are properly fitted in the first place.
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