SF Fieldcraft

[FirstClass]

if you're facing the rising sun, north is your left hand, if you're facing the setting sun, north is your right hand...just in case you don't have 30 min to nap.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by FirstClass

if you're facing the rising sun, north is your left hand, if you're facing the setting sun, north is your right hand...just in case you don't have 30 min to nap.

Depending on your lattitude.

Right now, here, the sun is coming up in the southeast. In the summer its in the northeast. About a 60ish deg swing.

Helps with finding North if you remember the "offset" .

[AF IDMT]

Ok I admit it, my Suunto is a crutch.

[Team Sergeant]

Originally Posted by AF IDMT

Ok I admit it, my Suunto is a crutch.

Think of it as a watch. Now, without a watch I'm betting you could "guess" the hour of the day with a high degree of accuracy.

And, if you look at the compass often enough over time you will become aware of how you're orientated just about every where.

Originally Posted by Team Sergeant

How does one find north without aid of a compass?

Survive in -60 degree weather?

Start a fire with no matches?

Snare a rabbit?

Build a poncho raft?

Procure water in a survival situation?

Wow! Nearly fifty posts dealing almost exclusively with finding north. Can't wait to see how this thread continues to develop.

[AF IDMT]

Originally Posted by Team Sergeant

Now, without a watch I'm betting you could "guess" the hour of the day with a high degree of accuracy.

You assume much, kind Sir.

Seriously though, I see your point.

[Dozer523]

Originally Posted by Broadsword2004

So I'm curious, how does one manage to survive in minus sixty degree weather?

Staying dry (avoiding environmental water and sweating)
Insulating to maintain body heat,
Eating a lot to generate and maintain core heat
Finding shelter and not goofing around thinking this is a situation that can be sustained over the long term because it can't.

http://www.jacklondons.net/buildafire.html

[Last hard class]

Originally Posted by Broadsword2004

So I'm curious, how does one manage to survive in minus sixty degree weather?

In Feb of 85' 1st of the 5th did our winter training in the Utah mountains. Survival week turned out to be one of the coldest in the continental U.S history.
-60 or -70 if I recall.

Being desert oriented our cold weather gear was 10th group hand me downs with Korean war era Mickey Mouse boots.( can you say sucks?) Before you went to bed you would put your canteen next to your body inside your clothes, all five layers, and then crawl inside your sleeping bag. In the morning the canteen would be frozen. Of course our canteens were plastic so you could not heat the frozen water.


The upside: The next week watching 150 camouflaged idiots who couldn't ski barreling down the black diamonds was almost worth the trouble.

Anyone here remember that trip?

Back to the thread:
Dehydration is commonly overlooked in the cold. You have to work slow. If you start sweating it may come back to bite you when the sun drops.

[Diablo Blanco]

I was in the field, in Utah, in January a few years back and had to use a trick I learned in Korea. Not the smartest thing for long term but it worked. I think it was either -17 or -40, I don't remember which (I took a knock on the head while there)

Anyways, our op wasn't as mobile as I expected so we ended up standing and laying around a lot. I got cold real quick. My feet had the sharp pains and it sucked. The wind wasn't helpful either. I donned my wet weather gear including the wet-weather/MOPP boots and stayed nice and warm. I'd have to wiggle my toes noe and then to get the blood flowing but overall was good to go.

One problem though, when we got out of the field my boots were soaked through with sweat and black from the boots. Took awhole to get them cleaned. Saved my toes though!

[cobra22]

After many weekends hiking and trying to teach my 7 YO son how to read a map, and compass, today he successfully led the way to two land navigation points I set up out by Pat Hurley lake. First one 900m and the second 1700m. The look of accomplishment on his face was worth the wait. He was even giving his mother tips. I figure once he gets the compass down packed then we can move onto improvised methods.

[DLeya]

Snare a rabbit?

There are several different types of rabbit snares. If limited supplies are available, a shoelace should be adequate. One method for constructing a simple snare begins with scoping for and/or locating possible rabbit or similar sized game trails*. A noose should be tied on one end of the shoelace (large enough for a rabbit's head to fit through). The other end should be secured to a moderately strong and sturdy object. A tree branch anchored into the ground and overlooking your desired location can work fine. The hole of the noose should be placed in the animal's path.

A rabbit would mistaken the snare for a piece of grass and the noose would slip around its neck, tightening as panic increased.

Hope this is enough information.

Respectfully,

Dleya


*Note: rabbit snares can be efficient in capturing other small animals as well

Originally Posted by cobra22

After many weekends hiking and trying to teach my 7 YO son how to read a map, and compass, today he successfully led the way to two land navigation points I set up out by Pat Hurley lake. First one 900m and the second 1700m. The look of accomplishment on his face was worth the wait. He was even giving his mother tips. I figure once he gets the compass down packed then we can move onto improvised methods.

That's very cool. Good on him.

[perdurabo]

I worked on the flightline (no trees/bushes) in the UP of Michigan, so I have a little experience here. We/I also did a lot of testing for new or upcoming polar gear for the military.

Here's my bit part on surviving in -60 degree weather:

- Stay dry (don't get wet, and avoid sweating)
- Stay out of the wind, even if a breeze
- Utilize many layers (including on your hands and feet)
- Don't drink alcohol
- Avoid any sort of chemical reaction heat warmer doohickeys. They heat up real nice, which causes you to sweat, and in those kinds of temperatures they don't stay warm but for a few minutes.
- Avoid any neoprene polar gear (we tested a bunch of this for body, hands, and face). It doesn't keep you warm, and its not breathable, so again, you sweat. It's unsuitable.
- And lastly, find the nearest diesel engine or bonfire ASAP

When the temps got in the realm of -60, diesel engines stop wanting to run (our trucks ran 24/7), even with their grills covered.

We would wear:

Head: baclava with two layers of wool with a layer of gortex between them, one of those funny mil issue russian style flight hats (the silvery ones that made you look like you had snoopy ears) on top of that.

Torso: The mil issue polar suits (they looked like really heavy duty carrhart deals)

Hands: flight gloves (I believe SOF guys fancy these), oversized mil issue wool gloves over these, and the mil issue polar mittens over these.

Feet: 2-3 layers of socks (the innermost layer a thin wicking sock, the outermost thick wool). "Bunny" boots over these, or "muckalucks"

Much of the time we were out there without a heat source and this kept us uncomfortably alive.

If I were in an alpine environment, I would get out of the wind, build a snow cave and try to build a fire (I *always* carry a lighter, even though I don't smoke). I would saw off every bough I could get my Leatherman Wave on (which I also carry everywhere. I also have a spare Gerber multitool in my pack).

I know this goes against what is taught in alpine survival schools, but I would avoid eating snow (and cold water, if at all possible). I was stupid once (just once!) and got myself in a hairy situation during a climbing trip and had to rely on eating snow for hydration and I believe it was helping me go hypothermic. Paradoxal undressing is a hard thing to fight, especially when your brain is scrambled. I had hiked this mountain many times before and it was considered easy. But I left too late and didn't check the weather reports (two extremely stupid mistakes).

[metaphor]

If no other means were available, I would use the bow drill method. It is an acquired skill not sufficient to have only read about in a manual. It should be practiced regularly and using different types of wood found on the landscape in varied regions and conditions if it is to be effective in any given survival situation. Materials needed: Fireboard, tinder-bundle, spindle, hand-hold, bow stick, cordage, and lubricant for hand hold (ear wax may be sufficient), wood for fire from kindling size up to about the thickness of your thumb or larger.

Find a bow about the length from your armpit to your hand, curved is ideal, and a little flex is okay. The cord should be about a foot longer than the bow. Cordage must be strong enough to withstand the drilling motion and have enough grip to grab the spindle as it turns. Experiment with tightness of the cord, and you will know when it is right. If you are not getting enough friction on the fireboard and the spindle is slipping in the cord you may need to make it a little tighter. A clove hitch is a good knot to tie the cord onto the bow. Cordage material can be anything from your shoestring or paracord to primitive cordage made from plants with the double reverse wrap method (if this is used the cord should be constructed of equal thickness throughout and may have to be lubricated with pitch so it doesn’t burn and break in the process.)

You are attempting to bring the suns energy back out of the wood you are using. Choosing the right wood is essential. Softer wood is best and the fireboard and spindle hardness should match as closely as possible. Use the fingernail test on the wood. You want some give when you push your finger nail in, and again match that fingernail test as closely as possible on the wood used for the spindle and fireboard. Length of your spindle should be about thumb tip to pinky tip. Taper on top and bottom of the spindle so it looks like a pencil sharpened on both ends. Hold the spindle flat on the fireboard about a quarter inch from the edge and stand the spindle up with the point touching the fireboard. This is where you will begin the “burn hole” for a lack of a better word. Cut a small groove in the fire board at this point with your knife (or stone tool). Cut a similar groove in the center of your hand hold. By the way, the hand hold should be large enough so it fits comfortably in your hand.

This is difficult to explain without pictures, but wrap the spindle in the cord of the bow so it is centered on the cord and the cord is centered on the spindle, the spindle should be oriented on the outside of the line of the cord. I need to find some pictures now to explain this…but, next place the ends of the spindle in the grooves of the fireboard and the hand hold. Put your weak foot on the fireboard, strong knee on the ground behind you…weak forearm/wrist on your shin…weak hand holding the hand hold…strong hand on the bow. Push the bow back and forth slowly, increasing speed until you see smoke, meaning the holes are burnt in slightly. Bow strokes should be as long as possible and done in a calm manner, while maintaining a good downward pressure on the handhold. Once the initial holes are burnt in, apply lubricant onto the top point of the spindle so that the hand hold no longer burns. Lubricant may come in many forms: ear wax, oils from the sides of your nose, soap, pitch, etc. Once this is done, begin turning again and burn in the fireboard hole a little deeper until the circumference is about the same as the circumference of the spindle.

Cut the notch. Imagine the fireboard hole (pit would be a better word) is a pie and cut 1/8 of that pie from the edge of the fireboard to the center of the “pit.” If the center of the spindle is pithy or hollow, then don’t cut all the way to the center.

Prepare tinder bundle. Find fine tinder material, the finer the better. Prepare it like a nest, this is the cradle for the coal baby you will be birthing.

Place the tinder bundle under the notch of the fire board, and set up your kit and begin turning the spindle like previously. Increase your speed and pressure until smoke appears, using long strokes and a prayer. Point the spindle straight up to the sky to “grab the sun’s energy and force it straight into the fireboard.” When you see smoke increase speed and pressure even more without losing your balance. When the fireboard smokes continuously without effort, check for a coal. If you have a smoking black coal, gently pour it into the tinder bundle “cradle.” Now relax, you now have time. Gently fold the coal inside the bundle hold above your head to catch the prevailing wind and gently blow. If smoke pours out it is safe to blow harder. Continue blowing and praying until flames appear. Place in the center of your well prepared fire tepee and enjoy…

[perdurabo]

Originally Posted by metaphor

If no other means were available, I would use the bow drill method. It is an acquired skill not sufficient to have only read about in a manual. It should be practiced regularly and using different types of wood found on the landscape in varied regions and conditions if it is to be effective in any given survival situation. Materials needed: Fireboard, tinder-bundle, spindle, hand-hold, bow stick, cordage, and lubricant for hand hold (ear wax may be sufficient), wood for fire from kindling size up to about the thickness of your thumb or larger.

Find a bow about the length from your armpit to your hand, curved is ideal, and a little flex is okay. The cord should be about a foot longer than the bow. Cordage must be strong enough to withstand the drilling motion and have enough grip to grab the spindle as it turns. Experiment with tightness of the cord, and you will know when it is right. If you are not getting enough friction on the fireboard and the spindle is slipping in the cord you may need to make it a little tighter. A clove hitch is a good knot to tie the cord onto the bow. Cordage material can be anything from your shoestring or paracord to primitive cordage made from plants with the double reverse wrap method (if this is used the cord should be constructed of equal thickness throughout and may have to be lubricated with pitch so it doesn’t burn and break in the process.)

You are attempting to bring the suns energy back out of the wood you are using. Choosing the right wood is essential. Softer wood is best and the fireboard and spindle hardness should match as closely as possible. Use the fingernail test on the wood. You want some give when you push your finger nail in, and again match that fingernail test as closely as possible on the wood used for the spindle and fireboard. Length of your spindle should be about thumb tip to pinky tip. Taper on top and bottom of the spindle so it looks like a pencil sharpened on both ends. Hold the spindle flat on the fireboard about a quarter inch from the edge and stand the spindle up with the point touching the fireboard. This is where you will begin the “burn hole” for a lack of a better word. Cut a small groove in the fire board at this point with your knife (or stone tool). Cut a similar groove in the center of your hand hold. By the way, the hand hold should be large enough so it fits comfortably in your hand.

This is difficult to explain without pictures, but wrap the spindle in the cord of the bow so it is centered on the cord and the cord is centered on the spindle, the spindle should be oriented on the outside of the line of the cord. I need to find some pictures now to explain this…but, next place the ends of the spindle in the grooves of the fireboard and the hand hold. Put your weak foot on the fireboard, strong knee on the ground behind you…weak forearm/wrist on your shin…weak hand holding the hand hold…strong hand on the bow. Push the bow back and forth slowly, increasing speed until you see smoke, meaning the holes are burnt in slightly. Bow strokes should be as long as possible and done in a calm manner, while maintaining a good downward pressure on the handhold. Once the initial holes are burnt in, apply lubricant onto the top point of the spindle so that the hand hold no longer burns. Lubricant may come in many forms: ear wax, oils from the sides of your nose, soap, pitch, etc. Once this is done, begin turning again and burn in the fireboard hole a little deeper until the circumference is about the same as the circumference of the spindle.

Cut the notch. Imagine the fireboard hole (pit would be a better word) is a pie and cut 1/8 of that pie from the edge of the fireboard to the center of the “pit.” If the center of the spindle is pithy or hollow, then don’t cut all the way to the center.

Prepare tinder bundle. Find fine tinder material, the finer the better. Prepare it like a nest, this is the cradle for the coal baby you will be birthing.

Place the tinder bundle under the notch of the fire board, and set up your kit and begin turning the spindle like previously. Increase your speed and pressure until smoke appears, using long strokes and a prayer. Point the spindle straight up to the sky to “grab the sun’s energy and force it straight into the fireboard.” When you see smoke increase speed and pressure even more without losing your balance. When the fireboard smokes continuously without effort, check for a coal. If you have a smoking black coal, gently pour it into the tinder bundle “cradle.” Now relax, you now have time. Gently fold the coal inside the bundle hold above your head to catch the prevailing wind and gently blow. If smoke pours out it is safe to blow harder. Continue blowing and praying until flames appear. Place in the center of your well prepared fire tepee and enjoy…

This is a great writeup. The only thing I'd added (for those without field advice) is practice this BEFORE you need it.

Figuring out the physics and the kinds of stuff you need take some time. Memorizing how to do this isn't enough. You don't want to figure out ideal stick & drill sizes after you are cold, wet, exhausted, and hungry.

I went on a long hike last weekend and managed to get a cherry under a tree stand in torrential rain and winds for the first time. I figure if I'm good to go there...

Go on a hike, find a safe/private area, and practice.