Chain Saw Selection and Basic Maintenance

[HOLLiS]

Originally Posted by Bill Harsey

Speaking of two cycle engines and fuel...

You boys and girls allowing for any extra oil when using gas with "corn" in it?

The guy at the saw shop only mentioned, to drain the tank when not in use. The "corn" will mess with the seals.


A side note, a friend who was a loyal Stihl user, replaced his Stihl with a Husky. Really likes it.

Also, on the 170, it would be nice if I could get a 30 in bar, so I would not have to bend over so much. (really great little all purpose hot rod saw)

[Bill Harsey]

Hollis,
check out the link in my last post, would like your opinion. It seems to tie together some things about ethanol and two cycle fuel.
Oregon last year passed law that requires all gas fuels sold at pumps contain 10% ethanol.
The PDF I linked to explains better why some two cycle engines are failing with this stuff. It relates to air-fuel mixture.

Here is a rock solid tip on adjusting the "high rev" screw on your saw carb.
DO NOT adjust it so your saw is screaming fast, this means you have leaned out the air fuel mixture and you are going to burn up your cylinder/piston much faster.
Adjust your "high rev" screw on your carb until it leans out then bring it back so there is a slight "gurgle" in the high revs. This means your running a bit richer fuel mix and it is what you want.
All above has been learned the hard way.

[HOLLiS]

Originally Posted by Bill Harsey

Hollis,
check out the link in my last post, would like your opinion. It seems to tie together some things about ethanol and two cycle fuel.
Oregon last year passed law that requires all gas fuels sold at pumps contain 10% ethanol.
The PDF I linked to explains better why some two cycle engines are failing with this stuff. It relates to air-fuel mixture.

Here is a rock solid tip on adjusting the "high rev" screw on your saw carb.
DO NOT adjust it so your saw is screaming fast, this means you have leaned out the air fuel mixture and you are going to burn up your cylinder/piston much faster.
Adjust your "high rev" screw on your carb until it leans out then bring it back so there is a slight "gurgle" in the high revs. This means your running a bit richer fuel mix and it is what you want.
All above has been learned the hard way.

Bill, I guess my saving grace is that I have newer saws. I traded my older ones in for lighter and more powerful saws. The other factor is I am kind of whimp. I can last almost a tank of fuel and I am done for a while. I'll ask the guys at the saw shop. They have been doing this a long time and seems to be up on things. If anything I am more a recreational chain sawer, if you can call it that.

Interesting is the 10% ethanol. How big is the fuel tank? That is not much ethanol. What does it call for in adding oil? 10% oil increase is probably negligible for all practical purposes.

I have a off brand weed whacker, it is a 36:1 ratio. I will use my Stihl mix (50:1) and then toss in some extra oil. Close enough, it smokes a little but still runs.

Thanks for the PDF, it was a interesting read. I think the biggest performance booster is keeping a sharp chain on the saw. I watch my chips, when they start looking like saw dust, I will change by chain.


I like wood heat, house runs around 75 Degrees with stove chokes all the way down. We added to the house insulation a few years back and it pays.

The energy resource people will pay about 80% of the cost. I need about 2 cords a year. When it is not so cold, I use a heat pump.

Last year I help some other people by giving them about 8 + cords of wood.



Again thanks for the PDF, I will ask the guys at L&L.

H.

Just asked L&L, guy there said, "Just don't leave it in your saw/can for longer than 60 days and keep the oil ratio the same."

[TrapLine]

Thanks guys for all the great information. I run a 290 Farm Boss and have been happy overall with its performance. It does a nice job on firewood, but gets a bit heavy for all day cutting around deer stands or trails. An addition to the fleet might be in order, maybe a MS 170. Like TR has said, I have had pretty good luck with Sta-Bil, but after reading here I will drain/run dry.

Now if I could only borrow Mr. Harsey to help fell the 100' leaning pine that happens to be growing between the hunting shack and shed/sauna. Vegas odds are probably 23% that the felling project will end with a construction project on one of the aforementioned structures.

Thanks again.

[HOLLiS]

Originally Posted by TrapLine

Thanks guys for all the great information. I run a 290 Farm Boss and have been happy overall with its performance. It does a nice job on firewood, but gets a bit heavy for all day cutting around deer stands or trails. An addition to the fleet might be in order, maybe a MS 170. Like TR has said, I have had pretty good luck with Sta-Bil, but after reading here I will drain/run dry.

Now if I could only borrow Mr. Harsey to help fell the 100' leaning pine that happens to be growing between the hunting shack and shed/sauna. Vegas odds are probably 23% that the felling project will end with a construction project on one of the aforementioned structures.

Thanks again.

We have a tree service here, that will fell that tree in small pieces. They are the guys to call when you don't want additional construction work. Maybe check in your A/O.

[TrapLine]

Originally Posted by HOLLiS

We have a tree service here, that will fell that tree in small pieces. They are the guys to call when you don't want additional construction work. Maybe check in your A/O.

Thanks HOLLis. The problem is that the shack is located on a lake along the MN/Canada border and is only accessible by ATV. This also raises the issue Mr. Harsey touched on about distances from trauma help. Thankfully two members are M.D.s, but the last stitch job I received on site tells me a surgery there would be less than ideal.

[HOLLiS]

Originally Posted by TrapLine

Thanks HOLLis. The problem is that the shack is located on a lake along the MN/Canada border and is only accessible by ATV. This also raises the issue Mr. Harsey touched on about distances from trauma help. Thankfully two members are M.D.s, but the last stitch job I received on site tells me a surgery there would be less than ideal.

The guys walked in. There is a tree climber and his assistants. Climbs the tree, then he ties off a bit of tree, cuts and then his assistants lower it. I had 5 trees done for $600.00 Three guys, three hours and they where done. A mistake would have cost a new roof, power line and who knows what else.

[Peregrino]

Originally Posted by HOLLiS

We have a tree service here, that will fell that tree in small pieces. They are the guys to call when you don't want additional construction work. Maybe check in your A/O.

Trapline - GO WITH THE PRO'S!!! Taking it down in pieces means topping it. (Unless you just want an excuse for a construction project. ) There's a cool Youtube video of a guy topping a "Harsey" sized tree and getting the snot beat out of him. It's always less painful if you can learn from somebody else's mistakes.

[BMT (RIP)]

How many of you guy's have used a saw with a bow instead of a bar??


BMT

[Bill Harsey]

Originally Posted by BMT

How many of you guy's have used a saw with a bow instead of a bar??


BMT

Sounds like you have.

I have a little bit. This is probably why chainsaws are pretty popular.
Also have pulled an Australian "M" tooth and traditional peg and raker single buck saw.
Used the peg and raker for work up high occasionally because it didn't weigh as much as the saw with starter rope on it but here is the main reason:
Was up a tree about 100 ft once and cut a strand out of my climbing rope with an axe, started packing a climbing saw for limbing my way up after that. Easier to control when a little tired. The old man would climb with about thirty five lbs. of McCullough hanging off his belt. I wasn't that tough.

[HOLLiS]

One piece of gear that has not been mentioned, that IMHO, is very important to have is "Bee Bopper" . Get a saw stuck is bad, but not as bad as having to abandon it. I have also left my tractor in a hurry.

[Peregrino]

Originally Posted by XJWoody

Sir, I'd be reluctant to advise a small engine shop locally. I love my loud toys and place that in the same category as which hospital I'd like to admit my grandkids... D. None of the above.

Carthage Saw & Mower ---- (a fouled up carb from poor storage) after it soundly defeated me.

If one wanted to travel a bit, Amick's in Asheboro (Bus 220, N side of town) is a very good shop. ------- At least they have Saturday hours, which is rare in that business.

Now that I've got time to phrase a proper reply - Thanks. I suspected your first comment based on informal queries of new neighbors. I'm familiar with the Carthage shop (I at least know where to find them) and they're a lot closer than the Sanford, Fayetteville, and Hope Mills shops I have used. The Ashboro shop sounds like somebody I could check out on a Saturday trip to visit the gunsmith. They're enroute and, depending on their policies, l don't mind leaving it until I can get back up there. The problem will most likely be the Poulan Weedeater; it was a little too "pedestrian" for the shops I took my saw to. Unfortunately, many of the shops I've encountered tend to be brand specific. They usually turned their noses up at somebody else's product and launched into a sales pitch. I'm sure this audience can imagine how much that tactic "annoys" me. Like most of us, I have what I have because it was the best I could afford when I "acquired" it, and I'm not interested in somebody else's irrelevant opinions. Whatever happened to the generalist who would fix whatever you brought him and, other than friendly or professional advice, keep his opinions to himself?

[XJWoody]

I'd like to give an open invite to PS.COM folks to a chainsaw meet, 4-18-09 at Amick's (1611 N Fayetteville St, Asheboro NC 27203 - 220 to Vision Drive exit, turn N on bus 220, parking 2d block NW, listen for the noise 0830+ to ?)

There will be a bunch of saws there to try out, watch, learn etc. I doubt there will be much advanced sawing skills taught (mostly harmless redneck goons slicing chunks off logs with others equip... like an open range day) but if some want to come out and try some saws in a family friendly/low stress environment... come on up! I have clean/unused PPE to share, unless you are a gargantuan.

It's a little far flung for the FBNC folks... but for the greater Pineland folks, come on up!

[abc_123]

Not really about chainsaws or chainsaw equipment, but since this thread did delve into cutting techniques and chainsaw safety I thought this would be the place to post this.

Terrible tragedy and I can't imagine living with myself if I was the guy driving the saw but... I'm sure there was more than one violation of good common sense principles before this accident took place...

http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,519737,00.html

Man Accidentally Kills Wife With Chain Saw
Monday, May 11, 2009


Print OTSEGO, Mich. — Michigan authorities say a man working in his yard accidentally killed his wife with a chain saw.

The Otsego couple were trying to cut a tree Sunday when the man hit his wife in the neck with the chain saw.

She died at the scene of the accident, about 35 miles south of Grand Rapids.

Sheriff's Deputy David Labonde lives nearby. He tells WOOD-TV he heard a cry for help and did what he could to help.

The sheriff's department says it's withholding the couple's names until other relatives are notified. The TV station says they're in their 40s.

[Bill Harsey]

abc 123,
Sad stuff.
Has happened to loggers too when saw kicked back.