Redneck/SF Engineering - Page 15

**The Reaper** · 09-05-2006, 09:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Harsey

Simple things first, can you see any fuel lines that can be taken off and blown out with compressed air?

Just a suggestion, but I would make sure that I was not putting 125psi into any lines that had diaphragms, check valves, etc., and that any air I was using was going in the right direction, lest I generate yet more revenue for the shop.

Just my .02, not a small engine mechanic, nor have I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express lately.

TR

**Bill Harsey** · 09-05-2006, 18:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Reaper

Just a suggestion, but I would make sure that I was not putting 125psi into any lines that had diaphragms, check valves, etc., and that any air I was using was going in the right direction, lest I generate yet more revenue for the shop.

Just my .02, not a small engine mechanic, nor have I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express lately.

TR

Just 125 psi? Knowing he has scuba tanks I was hoping He'd use 250!

My comments "taken off" meant I hope the article in question was "removed on each end".

My saws have German engineering and this means I have no business servicing any thing attached to them beyond the air filter.

We never serviced our own saw carburetors for the logging outfit, that was always considered a truly arcane craft reserved for those who have dedicated an entire working career to getting it right.

Aoresteen · 09-06-2006, 20:18

Living Pakistan causes you to think differently. The window crank on our '59 Hillman broke. Not being able to lower the window in a car without AC in Lahore in July is not fun. We tore the door apart and one of the connecting arms had broken in the middle. The arm was made of pot metal and you couldn't weld it. Of course no parts were available.

Solution: We made a wood box frame and filled it with fine damp sand. Tamped it down tight. Pressed the broken part into it as if we were making a mold. Leaving the broken part in the sand box "mold", we took the acetylene torch and heated the metal at the break point until it melted around the break area. It "re-cast" itself. Let it cool and re-installed it. Worked just fine.

**Ambush Master** · 09-06-2006, 20:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peregrino

Bill - Thanks, you've confirmed my fears. If a professional logger sends it to the shop, I have no business experimenting. The last time I played with the carb, it cost a lot more than $25. I learned enough from that experience to know my limits. I'll go get some high octane gas, make up a new batch of mix and let it sit (again). If that doesn't dissolve whatever's in there, it'll have to go in the shop. Later - Peregrino

Add a little Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to the gas. I just resurrected a 1985 S-10 Blazer that has been parked for 3-4 years. This stuff really works!! Any questions, give a shout!!!

Later
Martin

**Peregrino** · 09-06-2006, 21:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ambush Master

Add a little Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to the gas. I just resurrected a 1985 S-10 Blazer that has been parked for 3-4 years. This stuff really works!! Any questions, give a shout!!!

Later
Martin

AM - Thanks for the tip. I just Googled it and I'll pick some up tomorrow and try it. At this point it can't hurt, the only place to go from here is the repair shop. Any problems with plastic parts? The CS is a Stihl but there are "still" plastic pieces. Peregrino

**Bill Harsey** · 09-07-2006, 08:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aoresteen

Living Pakistan causes you to think differently. The window crank on our '59 Hillman broke. Not being able to lower the window in a car without AC in Lahore in July is not fun. We tore the door apart and one of the connecting arms had broken in the middle. The arm was made of pot metal and you couldn't weld it. Of course no parts were available.

Solution: We made a wood box frame and filled it with fine damp sand. Tamped it down tight. Pressed the broken part into it as if we were making a mold. Leaving the broken part in the sand box "mold", we took the acetylene torch and heated the metal at the break point until it melted around the break area. It "re-cast" itself. Let it cool and re-installed it. Worked just fine.

OUTSTANDING JOB!
You did make a mold using a very traditional material, sand.

The hotter the metal your "sand casting" the coarser the sand you want to use to let the gasses escape. Also note that a traditional (read "old") binder for sand casting sand is molasses.

I'm impressed. Well done.

x SF med · 09-07-2006, 10:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Harsey

JEEEEEZ, You guys are dredging up ouchy memories here.
I've had both my big toenails surgically altered after minor logging accidents like when I got my foot under the track of a moving D-8 cat.

Anything else pleasant you guys want to talk about?

hmmmm, you didn't perchance go by the name George Washington Hayduke, Doc Sarvis, or play a "jack Mormon" named Smith at the time did you? I see shades of Karo syrup in this picture. But, alas - you were on the 'other side', a logger, not an enviro-terrorist at the time. (name the book for the characters, and I'll find a copy and send it to you, bonus points if you can name GWH's former profession)

**Bill Harsey** · 09-07-2006, 14:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by x_sf_med

hmmmm, you didn't perchance go by the name George Washington Hayduke, Doc Sarvis, or play a "jack Mormon" named Smith at the time did you? I see shades of Karo syrup in this picture. But, alas - you were on the 'other side', a logger, not an enviro-terrorist at the time. (name the book for the characters, and I'll find a copy and send it to you, bonus points if you can name GWH's former profession)

According to some I was the ultimate eco-terorist.
Your very well read Sir.
If memory serves, Edward Abbey's George Washington Hayduke would be a welcome member here and given the title "Quiet Professional".

x SF med · 09-07-2006, 15:01

Bravo, Sir Bladesmith!
GWH was a member of the MWG, and as so delicately put (after the initial refrain of "Chemicals, Chemicals, Chemicals, I need my Chemicals!!!") an ex SF medic and demolitions specialist, ostensibly with the 5th in RVN.

I take it then, that you spiked a few trees of your own? Or possibly:

"...figured out how to jump start that big Cat D-9, by jumping the starter with a large monkey wrench found under the driver's seat, since nobody in their right mind would try to steal one of those monsters..."

One of my favorite books. I now owe you a copy, if I can find one. And I stand corrected, it was eco, not enviro, terrorist.

Remind me never to let you near any motor vehicle after you've been to the grocery store for Karo syrup.

**Bill Harsey** · 09-07-2006, 18:10

It's always the SF Medico's isn't it?

I have roll started the big cats when the battery is dead, you just have to know the battery isn't working and park it in the right place first.

lksteve · 09-07-2006, 19:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by x_sf_med

GWH was a member of the MWG, and as so delicately put (after the initial refrain of "Chemicals, Chemicals, Chemicals, I need my Chemicals!!!") an ex SF medic and demolitions specialist, ostensibly with the 5th in RVN.

IIRC, he was also known for expressing the sentiment "What could be more American than violence...?"

x SF med · 09-08-2006, 06:45

I do believe this post has been succesfully hijacked by an off shoot ofthe MWG. Who's gonna get the Houseboat? Can Gypsy play Bonnie, although she might not be radical enough....

7624U · 09-08-2006, 08:58

I will add my most Redneck Engineer project here it is.

When I lived up north I owned a old CJ7 Jeep that had 33' inch mud tires on it
well I wanted to Change to skinner Snow tires for winter driving, But found out I also needed diffrent Rims, the Cheapest Jeep rims I could find was about $60 each, not having much money I went looking for something else.

Come to find out old Ford truck rims have 5 holes that match perfectly and would work for the tires I had, I got the rims for $40 for all 4, Of course I was happy cause I saved Money, got the tires mounted on the rims and aired, then put them on my Jeep thinking everything would work out smooth.
NOT.......

The Ford Rim's Unknown to me at the time had just a slight diffrent concave on the inside of the rim, and this caused the rim to push against my Jeeps Brake pads, locking up all 4 tires when the tires where bolted down tight.

I took off the tires and figured I could maybe grind down some metal on the inside that would make enuff room for the pad's so they wouldent lock up,
after about 2 hours of that mess I found it wasent going to work, So Flustered went over to my Friends house he had a plasma cutting torch and alot of scrap metal laying around, Asked him if I could use it and he had no problem, I brought one tire with me so i could trace the outline of the inside of the rim with paper.

Found some Flat Steel about 1/2 inch think and put my outline on it and started cutting made 4 all the same and then cut all the holes for the Lug's
took them home and placed the first metal spacer on the Lugs, It fit perfect and dident interfear with the Brake Pad's, next put the tire on, And found that a bit tuffer because now I was cutting it close on bolt lenth, but I managed to get it on the Lugs and Cranked the Nuts down as hard as I could, Got all 4 tires on and crossed my fingers.

Started Up the jeep and it moved YAY.......
Jeep had the spacers under the Tires for 2 years and I never had a problem with it.
I sold it like that also It's Only Jeep I know of that had Ford Rims on it LOL

**The Reaper** · 09-08-2006, 11:42

Why not just put flat washers on the lugs before you put the wheels on?

You could even stack them up for the clearance you needed.

TR

x SF med · 09-08-2006, 11:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Reaper

Why not just put flat washers on the lugs before you put the wheels on?

You could even stack them up for the clearance you needed.

TR

TR-
That defeats the purpose of redneck engineering / Rube Goldberg machining - it's simple easy and logical. Plus you don't get to use that cool plasma torch...