View Full Version : Oil Magazine Springs?
Gold Eagle
10-25-2012, 19:59
I wanted to know if anyone here has oiled their magazine springs? I'm interested in protection from moisture/rust. Or what do you think about silicon spray? Thanks!
I clean and maintain magazines the same as any other part of the weapon. We learned when I was working at Wpns Branch that malfunctions would usually be a magazine problem.
Still use Break-free.
The Reaper
10-26-2012, 18:35
It is a good idea if you want them to collect dust.
Most mag springs are chrome silicon or stainless, which means they are naturally rust free.
If yours are rusting, go ahead and oil them if you feel better, but they will be attracting a lot of dust after you do, and require more frequent cleaning.
TR
Dozer523
10-26-2012, 21:15
TR
What do you think of the idea of releasing the spring from the housing during long periods when the mags will be stored empty? The "letting the spring rest" idea?
The Reaper
10-26-2012, 22:00
TR
What do you think of the idea of releasing the spring from the housing during long periods when the mags will be stored empty? The "letting the spring rest" idea?
If the mags are stored empty, there should be very little load on them, so I wouldn't bother. There are BAR mags out there that are almost 100 years old and are still working, and metallurgy today is better than it was back then.
I would consider having plenty of spare mags and extra springs though. Mags today are made to be disposable. No point in having a bad $10 mag keeping a $1000 rifle from being reliable.
TR
It is a good idea if you want them to collect dust.
Most mag springs are chrome moly or stainless, which means they are naturally rust free.
If yours are rusting, go ahead and oil them if you feel better, but they will be attracting a lot of dust after you do, and require more frequent cleaning.
TR
Next to this advice from a proven SME, my post looks ignorant; I need to clarify in order to not appear misinformed (stupid). ;)
When I say maintain the magazines the same way as any part of the weapon, I'm concurring with TR's advice, e.g. disassembing the mag during "PMCS", when the weapon is disassembled. I wipe all parts dry after cleaning, and reapply enough lube to rails (or whatever part needs lube depending on the environment).
Down South, I left a light coat of Break Free-more than I would in a desert environment-oxidation being a problem in the jungle.
The point was supposed to be that the magazines should receive no less attention than any other part of the system, IMO.
Did I crawdad out of this one? ;)
We lightly oiled and then wiped nearly dry in the tropics and European/North American forests, cleaned and bone dry in the desert and Arctic, constantly cleaned and lubed with CLP for MAROPS.
Richard :munchin
Dozer523
10-27-2012, 09:00
Next to this advice from a proven SME, my post looks ignorant; I need to clarify in order to not appear misinformed (stupid). ;)
Did I crawdad out of this one? ;)
Don't sweat it! We're used to it. :D
Nope.
longrange1947
10-27-2012, 09:08
The big thing is lightly oil, wipe dry. Do not allow oil to get on the rounds themselves during use. You will create a hydraulic pressure problem when the case expands the oil causes channels to form in the brass.
Believe it or not, I have seen oil placed in the mag with rounds in the mag. This is a problem waiting for the first couple of shots.
My 2 cents.
Ambush Master
10-27-2012, 09:26
TR
What do you think of the idea of releasing the spring from the housing during long periods when the mags will be stored empty? The "letting the spring rest" idea?
If the mags are stored empty, there should be very little load on them, so I wouldn't bother. There are BAR mags out there that are almost 100 years old and are still working, and metallurgy today is better than it was back then.
I would consider having plenty of spare mags and extra springs though. Mags today are made to be disposable. No point in having a bad $10 mag keeping a $1000 rifle from being reliable.
TR
Next to this advice from a proven SME, my post looks ignorant; I need to clarify in order to not appear misinformed (stupid). ;)
When I say maintain the magazines the same way as any part of the weapon, I'm concurring with TR's advice, e.g. disassembing the mag during "PMCS", when the weapon is disassembled. I wipe all parts dry after cleaning, and reapply enough lube to rails (or whatever part needs lube depending on the environment).
Down South, I left a light coat of Break Free-more than I would in a desert environment-oxidation being a problem in the jungle.
The point was supposed to be that the magazines should receive no less attention than any other part of the system, IMO.
Did I crawdad out of this one? ;)
Magazine Springs will generally retain their functionality whether they are compressed or relaxed. What wears them out is cycling i.e. loading, unloading or radical/repetitive thermal changes. I have several P35 mags that I carried in RVN 40 years ago and have been used numerous times since, that still function flawlessly and are never left empty for very long!! I do keep my mags lightly oiled (almost appear dry) with either LPS2 or 3. LPS meets a Mil-Spec Fingerprint neutralizing requirement that is not found in many "Lubricants". I have a Citori that I shot competively down on the Texas Gulf Coast, that I wiped down with LPS2 after every outing. While the Gold is worn off of the trigger, there is not a spec of oxidation on the rest of it!!! Sweat, constant moisture, etc. and it is rust free!!
Any questions please give a shout!! Also...............forget wd40!!!!!
Dusty...................that was a very good Mud-Bug Scramble!!
Martin
Dusty...................that was a very good Mud-Bug Scramble!!
Martin
Not if even Dozer smelled it. ;)
Ambush Master
10-27-2012, 10:11
Not if even Dozer smelled it. ;)
Don't Sweat it!! Let's all do as Brothers do and just settle down for a Brew!!
Later
Martin
ZonieDiver
10-27-2012, 11:39
Don't Sweat it!! Let's all do as Brothers do and just settle down for a Brew!!
Later
Martin
Who's buying the first round?:D
The big thing is lightly oil, wipe dry.
This is what I was told at Camp Mackall in July 1970. We were issued old, rusting, (some) bent M-14's and told there was a weapons' inspection in two hours. We cleaned furiously, then mustered on the concrete in front of the only tarpaper shack classroom. "Bear" Martin was the inspector and he didn't check a single M-14. He had us open our ammo pouches and pulled out a magazine to inspect.
We all failed. He then told us to check and clean them - as noted above. (From then on, most of the time we referred to him as "Magazine" Martin.)
Lesson learned with NO shouting, pushups, or punishment. It was then that I realized I was probably going to love Special Forces - if I made it all the way through (which I seriously doubted at that moment).
The Reaper
10-27-2012, 12:12
Okay, let me explain something for those who may be curious.
Magazines used to be made pretty much exclusively out of steel. M14s, FALs, M1 Carbines, etc. used steel mags.
Springs in that era could also have been carbon steel.
The HK and Armalites were among the first to use aluminum magazines. They will not rust, though they may corrode if exposed to the right elements (like salt water). The G3 aluminum mags are barely thicker then aluminum foil. IMHO, they are intended to be used once and discarded. The steel G3 mags are very strong, but significantly heavier.
Newer mag bodies will normally be either aluminum, or some form of plastic. As with anything else, some plastic (and aluminum) is better than others. New GI mags are among the best, along with the Magpul mags. Thermold and the other plastics, not so much. The new HK mags for the M-16 and M-4 weapons are steel.
If you see rust on your mag body, floorplate, spring, or follower, you should clean that component and give it a LIGHT coat of oil.
If the mag is new, put a refrigerator magnet on it. If it sticks, you have carbon steel and should keep an eye on it for rust.
As far as lubrication goes, more lube is not always better when it comes to guns. Any parts that appear to be shiny due to surface wear should be lubricated. In desert or arctic conditions, special lubes are required. In a temperate environment, most any oil intended for lubrication of metal on metal surfaces and corrosion prevention will work. In many cases, grease is a better lubricant and rust preventative. I am partial to TW-25B grease (I have used axle grease as well) and a variety of lubes including one homebrew my former gunsmith used to make that he called "Eel Snot". It was a mix of Marvel Mystery oil, STP oil treatment, and some other odd component. I have heard that Mobil Red Cap synthetic motor oil is a good lube, and I plan to try some soon. Even though it is an expensive motor oil, it will be a lot cheaper than buying 1 ounce bottles and tubes at $10 a pop. When lubricating a weapon, excess should almost always be wiped off, as the collected dust, grit, and oil is more of an abrasive than a lubricant. Some guns do like to be run wet internally though.
Hope that helps.
TR
Gold Eagle
10-27-2012, 17:39
T R
Please post your opinion when you try Mobil Red Cap synthetic motor oil.
I've read about some using Mobil 1 5-30 and are satisfied. Thanks!!!
Gold Eagle
12-03-2012, 07:54
It is a good idea if you want them to collect dust.
Most mag springs are chrome moly or stainless, which means they are naturally rust free.
If yours are rusting, go ahead and oil them if you feel better, but they will be attracting a lot of dust after you do, and require more frequent cleaning.
TR
So Silicon is not OK? Thanks!
medic&commo
12-03-2012, 08:58
FWIW - I just disassemble & check them once a year, or if they're grossly dirty; otherwise wiping down seems to suffice.
m&c
The Reaper
12-03-2012, 20:55
So Silicon is not OK? Thanks!
Sorry, chrome silicon is a better metal for magazine springs if they are kept in a clean, dry environment.
In the real world, they rust much faster than the stainless steel springs, and thus have to be maintained.
I would take the stainless ones over the chrome silicon. Then all you have to do is to wipe them off occasionally to keep the dust and dirt out of the mags.
TR
Gold Eagle
12-05-2012, 09:39
I was thinking the spray type silicone bought at China Mart and auto parts stores for rust protection. :)
Gold Eagle
12-18-2019, 08:03
T R
Please post your opinion when you try Mobil Red Cap synthetic motor oil.
I've read about some using Mobil 1 5-30 and are satisfied. Thanks!!!
Any updates to Syn oil? I know it's been awhile.:cool:
Magazine Springs will generally retain their functionality whether they are compressed or relaxed. What wears them out is cycling i.e. loading, unloading or radical/repetitive thermal changes.
I remember a magazine article on this topic years ago, and it included "should magazines be loaded to less than full capacity" so the spring had "a little slack" to make it last longer. (e.g. 18 rounds in a 20 round mag).
The results were straightforward.
Store the magazines loaded to the rated capacity, or store them part empty, or empty them unless loading up to fire ... the result is the same. There is no "statistically significant difference" in the life of the spring. The only way to shorten the life of the spring is to cycle it.
As Ambush Master said, it is the cycling -- compress, uncompress, compress, uncompress -- that "work hardens" the spring with every cycle, ultimately leading to the metal snapping. Much like bending a paper clip back and forth and back and forth.
When you thing about it, that makes sense. So have a number of magazines, and rotate among them rather than using the same two or three at the range every time. They will then all last longer.
The Reaper
12-18-2019, 10:41
I have experienced no lubrication related malfunctions while using synthetic motor oil and automotive grease.
I do run my weapons wet though.
TR
Gold Eagle
12-20-2019, 14:29
Thank you gentlemen!
T.R., Mobile One?
The Reaper
12-21-2019, 19:12
Thank you gentlemen!
T.R., Mobile One?
Correct.
TR
I have had new mags right out of the wrappers that were bone dry and would not work till I depressed follower and ran a patch down inside with Mobil 1 on them.
As Richard said above don't overdo it as lubricant attracts dust.
DO NOT USE Graphite powder ! ! ! ! Graphite in the presence of moisture is a lubricant, graphite in the absence of moisture is an abrasive. That is why graphite is in brake shoes.
There was a course at Rock Island Arsenal called "Corrosion and Prevention of Material Deterioration" and if it is still conducted and you can get sent to it GO ! ! !
Finest DA course I ever attended. It is a week long and you will be amazed at what it covers.