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View Full Version : Knife Storage - Need ideas


CW3SF
10-25-2012, 18:54
I went thru the house and gathered up most of my knives. I have a couple of collectibles but mostly just knives that I have used or carried over the years and eventually replaced.

What is everyone doing for storage? I am not really looking for a display case, per se but I would like to have a central repository or some type of designated storage area.

I have attached a pic of the bulk of the lot, including the new one. I still have a few others hiding here and there that I need to dig up.

Post up pics if you have some type of storage/display set up.


Thanks.

Snaquebite
10-25-2012, 20:08
I use a Gerstner machinist tool chest...

23389
Gerstner's are high quality around $300.00. You can find less expensive. I think Craftsman makes one similar for around $100.00

Some examples of Gerstners...There are other makers
http://www.woodcraft.com/Search2/Search.aspx?query=Gerstner

I have an older model no longer produced similar to the hobby chest.

CW3SF
10-25-2012, 21:19
That's awesome. Thanks for the link.



I've never seen those before. This is just the type of info I was looking for.

DJ Urbanovsky
10-26-2012, 12:17
I use a machinist's tool chest also, only mine belonged to grandpappy. I felt like it was too cool to use in the shop, so I replaced the felts in the drawers and loaded it up with goodies. Oh, it came pre-loaded with a bunch of gramp's old machinist tools and cutters (which he ground himself) and those do get used in the shop. :D

x SF med
10-31-2012, 15:30
Chief - #1 thing to do.... a light coat of mineral oil on all blades/ exposed metal, very light (wax on - wax off)

If you can find an Osborne-Solaz cedar wine box, and put in some nicer dividers (the cedar is very nice, but they're cut for wine bottles) that'll work fine. I put mine back into their original bxes if I still had them for moving... and the folders, non-boxed stuff went into the Sterlite plastic shoebox containers.

My sharpening gear fits neatly into a Bookers box which matches the Solaz Boxes very nicely.... except for the Japanese Water Stone... it has it's own plastic water bath box... and the gallon of mineral oil.

HOLLiS
10-31-2012, 17:00
Chief - #1 thing to do.... a light coat of mineral oil on all blades/ exposed metal, very light (wax on - wax off)

If you can find an Osborne-Solaz cedar wine box, and put in some nicer dividers (the cedar is very nice, but they're cut for wine bottles) that'll work fine. I put mine back into their original bxes if I still had them for moving... and the folders, non-boxed stuff went into the Sterlite plastic shoebox containers.

My sharpening gear fits neatly into a Bookers box which matches the Solaz Boxes very nicely.... except for the Japanese Water Stone... it has it's own plastic water bath box... and the gallon of mineral oil.

No Tormek?

I am probably one of the worse people when it comes to knives.

mark46th
11-03-2012, 13:35
I would like to store one of my knives in Ayman al Zawahiri's eye...

Ambush Master
11-04-2012, 11:06
Mine live either in my pocket or in the "Gun Safe". The Safe has a "Goldenrod" de-humidifier/electrical heater that keeps the temp at a constant stable level, until you open the door and as long as it is warmer than OAT, you're good.

I would also recommend one of the LPS Products over any other oil/mineral oil etc. LPS#2 is a light lube and LPS3 is somewhere between motor oil and causmoline. It dries to a somewhat tacky consistency. They are both rated to a "Fingerprint Neutralizing" specification!! When we were Overhauling PT6s it was the only readily available product that worked!! FORGET WD40, all it's really good for is to be used as a Starting Fluid!! I've seen the insides of many "Alloy" framed weapons growing "Flower Garden Corrosion" that had been maintained with it!! I'll never trust anything that I own to anything but LPS!!!

http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/lubricants_pg/LPS2.html

I was first introduced to this product somewhere around 1972/3 and it was a PHENOMINAL demonstration. It was @ Houston Hobby Airport in a hangar. When we arrived there was a table, with a rather large aquarium on it that was filled with water, a 55 gal drum also filled with water. The LPS SME walked over to the table carrying a cheap electric drill, a white ceramic light bulb socket/w bulb, an ungrounded extension cord and a can of LPS2!! He then, after a few words took the bulb out of the socket and sprayed it's base and the socket with the LPS2. He then plugged it in and submerged the socket and bulb in the aquarium and proceeded to screw the bulb into the socket until it LIT UP!! He then unscrewed it and repeated, this guy WAS NOT SUPERMAN, it was the LPS!!! He then sprayed down the cheap drill, and proceeded to drill holes in the drum full of water from the inside out!!!

Good stuff and I've used it ever since. The only thing I'll do with a can of wd40 is shoot it!!

Later
Martin

x SF med
11-04-2012, 14:40
Martin... I agree with your WD 40 conclusions... but it does work well for cleaning locks that have been subjected to oil rather than graphite... mainly because its under pressure and gets the moisture out...

But hey, 3in1, food grade mineral oil and Froglube are my staples anymore for knife and gun cleaning/lubing/storing. ...and sharpening is now done with the food grade mineral oil or simple green on the oil stones, plain water on the Japanese Water stone.

Ambush Master
11-04-2012, 15:54
But hey, 3in1, food grade mineral oil and Froglube are my staples anymore for knife and gun cleaning/lubing/storing. ...and sharpening is now done with the food grade mineral oil or simple green on the oil stones, plain water on the Japanese Water stone.

LPS is Cleared hot by the FDA for use on Food Processing Equipment!! Graingers carries it as does ACE Hardware.

DJ Urbanovsky
11-05-2012, 11:10
That's crazy.



http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/lubricants_pg/LPS2.html

I was first introduced to this product somewhere around 1972/3 and it was a PHENOMINAL demonstration. It was @ Houston Hobby Airport in a hangar. When we arrived there was a table, with a rather large aquarium on it that was filled with water, a 55 gal drum also filled with water. The LPS SME walked over to the table carrying a cheap electric drill, a white ceramic light bulb socket/w bulb, an ungrounded extension cord and a can of LPS2!! He then, after a few words took the bulb out of the socket and sprayed it's base and the socket with the LPS2. He then plugged it in and submerged the socket and bulb in the aquarium and proceeded to screw the bulb into the socket until it LIT UP!! He then unscrewed it and repeated, this guy WAS NOT SUPERMAN, it was the LPS!!! He then sprayed down the cheap drill, and proceeded to drill holes in the drum full of water from the inside out!!!

Good stuff and I've used it ever since. The only thing I'll do with a can of wd40 is shoot it!!

Later
Martin

WD-40 is great for driving water away, but is less than ideal for long-term use. And too much of it left in place can actually stain blades. I go through gallons of it in the shop, but for storage, there are other choices.

hso
11-09-2012, 19:09
I've collected and used knives made of carbon steel for many years.

I coat each with a product made by White Lighting (http://www.whitelightningco.com/products/clean-ride.htm) they now call "Clean Ride". It is a liquid suspension of wax in a relatively quick evaporating carrier. I consider it to be like Ren Wax in a squirt bottle and it spreads into nooks and crannies. I just dribble it on, smear around with a finger and allow it to dry to a white waxy haze. If I'm just storing the knife I don't buff the haze clear, but if I want to use them or display them I'll buff lightly to clear the haze on the knife.

I store my knives for the most part in a wooden map cabinet, but anything that isn't air tight and is kept in temp/humidity that is comfortable for us will do.

I also add a VCI cartridge to the drawers of the cabinet. I use the small Bullfrog cups, but I'm also using Zerust in the safe.

There are many good options for preventing rust and good articles have been published in the knife enthusiast magazines, but I've had very very good results here in humid East Tennessee using this method.

Ambush Master
11-09-2012, 20:33
That's crazy.




WD-40 is great for driving water away, but is less than ideal for long-term use. And too much of it left in place can actually stain blades. I go through gallons of it in the shop, but for storage, there are other choices.

LPS will make WD-40 look like a Water Magnet and it is "Fingerprint Neutralizing"!!

http://www.lpslabs.com/technical_info/tds/LPS2.pdf

CW3SF
11-10-2012, 15:14
Update - I appreciate the feedback from everyone. I ended up going with a "Stack On" biometric entry safe, mounted on top of my gun safe. I couldn't find anything of the wooden variety in a color that I liked. And a tool chest wasn't a good fit.

I am real happy with where I ended up.

GMAN
11-18-2012, 06:39
Well just in case anyone is still looking here is a Gerstner machinist tool chest clone from Harbor Freight for $80 Bucks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/eight-drawer-wood-tool-chest-94538.html

CW3SF
11-18-2012, 20:48
Well just in case anyone is still looking here is a Gerstner machinist tool chest clone from Harbor Freight for $80 Bucks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/eight-drawer-wood-tool-chest-94538.html

Looks pretty nice for the money. But FYI it says "backordered" on the link.;)

DJ Urbanovsky
11-19-2012, 11:57
Thanks for the heads up, bud!

I'm definitely going to need to get my hands on some of that stuff and give it a try, although at $60/gal I'll never be able to fully replace the WD-40 with this.


LPS will make WD-40 look like a Water Magnet and it is "Fingerprint Neutralizing"!!

http://www.lpslabs.com/technical_info/tds/LPS2.pdf

Ambush Master
11-19-2012, 12:36
Thanks for the heads up, bud!

I'm definitely going to need to get my hands on some of that stuff and give it a try, although at $60/gal I'll never be able to fully replace the WD-40 with this.

You can get "Consumer" quantities from WW Grainger.