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I was looking online and on PS for different custom firearm paint designs. Most importantly if anyone had any tips on how to paint their firearm(s). I came across this web page, and the pattern is close to what I want. The person walks you through the process from start to finish also. Just thought I'd share this with you all in case you wanted to try something different than what I've seen on other threads. Camo (http://www.gunnersgear.com/graces_camo/armory_cammo.htm)
The article posted tells you how to make what you might feel is a "cool" looking rifle. If thats your goal, have at it.
But, what the author neglected to do, was to tell you about preparation of the substrates. Preparation in ANY paint job is 99% of the finished product. Without the proper prep, that "cool" looking camo job will probably make it through one season, given the amount of temp changes, exposure to solvents and just general usage.
The article posted tells you how to make what you might feel is a "cool" looking rifle. If thats your goal, have at it.
But, what the author neglected to do, was to tell you about preparation of the substrates. Preparation in ANY paint job is 99% of the finished product. Without the proper prep, that "cool" looking camo job will probably make it through one season, given the amount of temp changes, exposure to solvents and just general usage.
Agreed. He didn't delve into degreasing or even disassembling the firearm first either. I have just used a primer and Krylon to coat several firearms, and they have withstood some beatings. However the premise of the basic pattern is a good idea. You can base a lot of different patterns off of his initial camouflage of the corners, and round edges. The use off the various foliage around whatever terrain you hunt in was also a good point. The Duracoat patterns and products I've used and seen are cheesy too. I just wanted to bring to light a different more cost efficient way of camouflaging a firearm that others may not have known. It aint easy bein' cheesy :p
De-greasing, using PrepSol, PPG's DX190 etc. is the basic way to start. Also, 3M scuff pads and an adhesive promoter such as "Bulldog" on your composite parts is another tool to use.
One positive point he did make is to study your hunting area, and the time of year your particular season starts.
Like any other piece of art the rule of thumb applies. "Dark and Light, Loose to Tight".
Squint your eyes and look at the picture of the finished product. All the details fade away and you're left with what appears to be a single color. That's what the rifle will look like to anyone past about 20 feet. Sure, it looks cool up close, but depending on the intended use, it may be more effective to just use large blobs of contrasting colors that remain distinguishable at longer distance to break up recognizable shapes and outlines. If you plan to count coup on turkeys, then by all means put all that effort into painting your rifle.
devinsdad
09-16-2009, 09:19
While I am by no means an artist, I have found that 3-4 inch overlapping stripes or "swatches" produce the best results (done without tape or tiny digital squares). Razor is correct, up close...it looks cool, out past 20-30 feet...it's one color. Broad strokes do the best job. At least for my opinion.
The Reaper
09-16-2009, 11:04
While I am by no means an artist, I have found that 3-4 inch overlapping stripes or "swatches" produce the best results (done without tape or tiny digital squares). Razor is correct, up close...it looks cool, out past 20-30 feet...it's one color. Broad strokes do the best job. At least for my opinion.
Might want to go back, read the rules, and comply before posting again, Dad.:rolleyes:
TR
My thoughts, camo is cool and mostly for humans.
As swapa mentioned, prep is 99% of the job. It is terrible to see a nice job flake off. Some materials don't bond well either.
Camo is like fishing lures, it catches more fishermen than fish.
The Reaper
09-17-2009, 07:25
I agree with Razor. Studies have shown that any pattern fades to its general color beyond 20 feet. What do you notice about the ACUs in a wooded or low light area? Most see them as a light green blob much lighter in color than the surrounding area.
Flaking, runs, etc. are not going to affect the weapon's camo till it starts revealing straight lines and bright metal. Those little blades and leaves are of some possible benefit if the individual is standing next to your position or is glassing you from nearby with some high magnification. If the person looking for you is beyond pistol range, it probably doesn't matter.
If you are painting your rifle just to have a cool camo job, great. Make it as detailed as you like.
If you are just looking to reduce the overall visibility of the weapon, a few cans of flat Krylon in the general background color of the area and a couple of strips of burlap, properly applied, will do just as well.
Just my .02, YMMV.
TR
I definitely agree that the broader patterns work best. The "cool" factor is what I was looking for though. A family member of mine wanted his old Fox B double barrel painted which initially sparked my interest, so I used my Marlin 70P as a test subject. Attached below are a few photos of the finished product. Hell, even up close it doesn't really blend into anything :rolleyes:. One picture is a little blurry.
Is that knife in your last picture a Kershaw Blur? Probably my favorite knife I've ever owned. Unfortunately I left it in Iraq somewhere.
Yep, it's a kershaw. Maybe I could find yours for you, I'll be there very soon :D
Figured I would bring this to life again. Anyone have any input on how I can make this any better. I think I should have conducted my first paint job on a AR-15, but oh well I figured I would just dive into this one. I still have dark brown and coyote tan to add as of this post in small positive blotches. I will post up the completed piece. But an input or improvements would be greatly appreciated.
My M!A National Match in Sage Stock with my attempt at multi cam
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/1364222168927_zpse9e659bf.jpg
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/20130506_224343_zps50a15dd9.jpg
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/20130506_235849_zps4cd1a08d.jpg
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/20130507_121941_zpsfe62a99a.jpg
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/20130511_164456_zps059d9b1c.jpg
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/20130513_202435_zps923c21e0.jpg
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/20130513_230508_zpsc32d7d0f.jpg
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/20130514_005609_zpsfd53fdfa.jpg
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/20130514_005710_zpsbb633055.jpg
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj567/sulfek/Guns/20130514_010041_zps3de37dea.jpg
Figured I would bring this to life again. Anyone have any input on how I can make this any better. I think I should have conducted my first paint job on a AR-15, but oh well I figured I would just dive into this one. I still have dark brown and coyote tan to add as of this post in small positive blotches. I will post up the completed piece. But an input or improvements would be greatly appreciated.
My M!A National Match in Sage Stock with my attempt at multi cam
That Ranger IPA is good stuff. Nice set up, and good job on the multicam. I'm looking to do some painting soon only I'll be using Cerekote. Just finished up my oven to hang them in. I'm going to do a few practice pieces like bipods and flashlights before I spray the rifle or xbow. That cerekote isn't very forgiving.