For the Professional Soldiers...

[Claemore]

I am in the design process of making two knives. One is going to be a spear point and one is going to be a tanto. They will both be flat ground. Both will be made out of 1095 or O-1 steel. I will be heat treating and doing the "home made cryogenics" thing. The blades will be from 5.5-6", unless otherwise advised, and from 3/16 - 1/4". Probably will be 3/16", unless otherwise advised.

What I would like to do, if it is ok, would be to offer these two knives to any two of you that is active duty. This would be for free. Well, not for free. You guys have done so much for this country, our way of life, that you have certainly paid for the knives many times over. Also, whoever takes the knives would be able to give me feedback on the design.

I'm not looking at making a buck on this. I'm looking to get back into law enforcement- doing what I think I'm supposed to be doing.
But, if I could create a knife that would work for those going into harm's way, and supply it to those that would appreciate and use it, that would be great. I'm not advertising. I've got a back porch, some files, an eight inch grinder and a 4X36 sander. I'm not looking to "cut" into anybody's lane. I don't qualify, but hey, I want to do something for you guys.

I'm not sure how to divvy these two knives up, when I get them done, but I think it can be worked out. Any and all suggestions as to the design are welcome, and thanks for everything.

[wet dog]

In Ft. Collins, CO on a regular basis, I can stop by your shop. Send PM with address.

WD

[swatsurgeon]

I am in the design process of making two knives. One is going to be a spear point and one is going to be a tanto. They will both be flat ground. Both will be made out of 1095 or O-1 steel. I will be heat treating and doing the "home made cryogenics" thing. The blades will be from 5.5-6", unless otherwise advised, and from 3/16 - 1/4". Probably will be 3/16", unless otherwise advised.

What I would like to do, if it is ok, would be to offer these two knives to any two of you that is active duty. This would be for free. Well, not for free. You guys have done so much for this country, our way of life, that you have certainly paid for the knives many times over. Also, whoever takes the knives would be able to give me feedback on the design.

I'm not looking at making a buck on this. I'm looking to get back into law enforcement- doing what I think I'm supposed to be doing.
But, if I could create a knife that would work for those going into harm's way, and supply it to those that would appreciate and use it, that would be great. I'm not advertising. I've got a back porch, some files, an eight inch grinder and a 4X36 sander. I'm not looking to "cut" into anybody's lane. I don't qualify, but hey, I want to do something for you guys.

I'm not sure how to divvy these two knives up, when I get them done, but I think it can be worked out. Any and all suggestions as to the design are welcome, and thanks for everything.


I have to say that knife design is more of an art than I originally appreciated. As a Trauma surgeon, I see the effects of knife wounds all of the time but the usual weapon used is a kitchen knife or similiar in it's generic makeup...rarely do we see a wound from a true tactical designed knife...occasional a "hunting knife" is used.
As far as tactical knife characteristics, it really goes to mission specifics...are you a slasher, a thruster, fore grip or reverse grip...what damage are you looking to do? Simple tendon laceration to incapacitate an extremity is different than a heart or great vessel thrust to cause major life threatening hemorrhage. Will bones be a factor i.e., is the intended anatomic target protected completely/partially by bone? The characteristics of the blade need to match what you think you will do with the knife...just as ammo/caliber for your sidearm or long gun ....would rather have an M-4 to reach that 200 yard bad guy rather than my .45...you get the idea,
I think today the emphasis has been on the 'generic' tactical knife. When I look through Blade magazine, there is a theme to what is being produced overall. Now take the Harsey/Reeve Yarborough or Pacific or Spartan's Ares and some of the Brock designs...they have more defining features that lend themselves to the work that a LEO or QP is going to require that 'style' blade for.
With my knowledge of anatomy and understanding of the body from the inside and outside, there are characteristics I would want in a blade to inflict the damage my skill level and training could exploit...these are personal and may not fit the Team Sergeant or Reaper if they were to use a knife with their level of training and skills, they could exploit an entirely different set of potential injuries for very 'mission specific' reasons.
So, your question is either generic to fit the masses or specific to an individual's needs...i'm just not sure which one you are after. The difference is a custom knife or a mass produced knife to make the greatest number of people satisfied with the tool that have in their hand for the task presented.

just my 2 cents on design...hope it made sense.

ss

[Claemore]

Thanks Swatsurgeon.

The knife I would design, would be for general utility. Something that would stand up to the rigors of hard field use. Breaking crates open, digging a hole, opening MREs, etc. Then, if needed, could be used as a weapon, if a firearm wasn't immediately available.

I think the problem inherent with such a design though is that tip strength has a tendency to not penetrate as well as thinner designs. So, it's kind of a catch 22, or (pun warning) a double edged sword.

With your experience, I would be very interested to hear what your design parameters would be. I've always designed for strength, that's the reason behind using a chisel grind. Though, I know that chisel grinds are not that popular of a design. That's why I'm going with a flat grind with these two knives.

If you don't mind, that is. Again thanks, Swatsurgeon.

[Claemore]

OK, I have a rough blank, in the shape of what I'm designing. Instead of O-1, or 1095, I've made it out of a leaf spring. Since I've been out of cash, making it out of the other steels didn't seem like a good idea. Plus this is good, tough steel.

The first one is a tanto, since it's my favorite blade profile, and I think it is the most utilitarian of the profiles out there. I like wide blades, but I wanted to be able to use, or have others have the ability to use commercially available sheaths, specifically the Spec-Ops Brand sheath. So, my blade is only about 1 1/2" at the widest point.

Also, I was going to put the familiar "skull crusher" pommel on board, but I didn't really see a need for one, due to the fact that a 1/4" of exposed steel at the ass end is crushing enough. Plus, if you need to hammer on the pommel, a pointy end kind of inhibits that.

I considered putting saw like teeth on the top end, but wondered if they would just be for show, or would actually be useful.

In the end, I decided that a plain Jane, sharp, durable knife was what I wanted, and hopefully what was desired. I knife you could throw away, if you had to, or keep for years if you could.

[Claemore]

Here is Wet Dog's finally done.:lifter

[Bill Harsey]

Claemore,
Good basic knife for the category I call a breaking knife. (my made up term)
A pointed end of knife might be handy for breaking glass but you could use the front of that one.

It is my opinion that saw teeth on a blade can cause as much or more trouble than they are worth.

[Claemore]

That was the conclusion I came up with about the saw teeth. Thanks for looking Bill.

[Claemore]

So, I met Wet Dog. Very nice guy. Good guy.:) The knife he took was a different knife than the one I posted. Here is the pic:

[Claemore]

Another view:

[Claemore]

This one is chisel ground with a variation of the Besh Wedge incorporated into it. This one is actually my favorite design. If I remember correctly, a six inch blade, 1/4" thick. If you are not familiar with the Besh Wedge, it is a very cool design. The blade is chisel ground on opposing sides with a third edge having been met in the middle. This was an original idea by Brent Beshara. He has some great stuff on his website. He has given me the go-ahead to make knives with this design.

Thanks Wet Dog for meeting with me. I'm honored to have met him.:lifter

[Claemore]

I'm planning on making more free knives for soldiers... Anybody interested, let me know.

[wet dog]

The knife that I have is being finished, handle / shealth. It will be going down range this 1Q, 2010.

I beleive Claemore has something here. Nice to see new metal workers come along.

WD

[Claemore]

Thanks Wet Dog. Let me know how it performs. That is one of my favorite designs.

[craigepo]

I noticed your choice of knife metal. Last year, while elk hunting, a friend busted out a knife("Alaskan" brand maybe?). We totally cleaned 5 elk with that knife, and the knife never got dull. He told us that the knife's guarantee was that if the knife dulled w/in the first year, send it back and they would sharpen/replace it for no charge.(the knife has to be sent to the factory for resharpening). Anyway, was the most amazing edge-holding I've ever seen on a knife, and was curious if the metal you are using is the same or similar to this Alaskan blade.

[Ghostiger7]

So, I met Wet Dog. Very nice guy. Good guy.:) The knife he took was a different knife than the one I posted. Here is the pic:

nice...I can see exactly why Wetdog chose this particular 'Tool" ;)

[The Reaper]

nice...I can see exactly why Wetdog chose this particular 'Tool" ;)

Please fill in your profile before posting again.

TR

[sleepyhead4]

I already posted a reply on another forum thanking Claemore for my new knife, but because I like the knife so much, I have to thanking him again for a beautiful and well made knife. You sir are an artist. Thanks.

Here are two pics of the knife. Great design and very solid. :lifter

[Claemore]

You are very welcome, Sleepyhead4. As I posted before, if you have any problems with it, let me know, I will fix it.:lifter